This route is on the lowest, north-facing 'boulder' at the North East toe of Der Freischutz. These have subnames such as Frankenstein's Castle and The Dwarf. This new (?) route is closest to the Dwarf but not on it. From the alley-way between The Hand and D.F., look South to the massive blocks and towers (boulders?) at the low corner of D.F. The first very large one you see is split by a system of cracks, starting low and right and bumping left, crack to crack, until reaching the top. That is "Dwarves are People Too."
Ascend 8' or so to reach a good, horizontal flake wedged solidly into the wall. Place a pink tricam or a small Aliens/TCU in that, and bump up and left to reach the first vertical crack. A good thin-hands cam protects the crack just before it bottoms out. Move up above the shallow section and get a solid stance and place more gear before bumping left to another crack (1"). Place gear and go up and left to a huge jug, then protect with solid gear again (larger) climb some fist crack and go up to a thinning spot, then up on small slashes and cracks to the juggy finish. The cracks on this route generally are good and some o the short slashes will take small Aliens and have good sinker pockets at the bottom of them.
This route should clean up nicely and both of us really liked the moves. Lamentably, it was over too soon. If it were twice as long, it would get 2*s for sure.
A single set of cams from 0.3 to 4". Our ascent was done without anything bigger than a #3 Camalot or smaller than 1" cam and some tricams, but a set of Aliens and cams to #4 would have been an easy rack to place and would have sewed it up!
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2012
Good movement makes up for the rock quality, go do it if you're up there.