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Steep and powerful... lots of action and a cool finish. Originally visualized by Miles and Joe, and bolted by me, Joe and Cres. Named for Joe's method of doing the lower crux. This route was "assigned" to Joe, but he found other interests at other crags so it sat dormant.
Freeloader climbs 90% of Dwarf Toss before heading out the Chain Gang ceiling. So when Vince sent Freeloader he pretty much made the FA of this route academic, but to my knowledge Ian Evans did the first red-point of Dwarf Toss that actually finished at the El Torito anchor (April 2010).
There are 2 ways of doing the lower crux. The left-hand way (Vince's beta) has a chaindraw on the hanger. There is also a hanger (but no chaindraw) to protect the Dwarf beta if you like that better.
Height is a definite help on this route.
2nd route from left in the cave. Starts from the 2 bolt belay at the left end of the cave ledge. Ends at the El Torito anchor.
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Fittingly, the first-ascentionist is a (poorly) paid academic.
The Dwarf Toss beta is plainly superior. Good of you to leave both bolts, John.... never been on a route with two bolts at the same height before.... like a choose your own adventure book!
I like this climb better than either Torito or Demo.
May 4, 2010
You're right Ian, I'm changing my star rating to 3. If I was as fit as you it probably wouldn't feel thrutchy.
Jun 26, 2010
Good going Ian! I believe that you are the tallest person to successfully pull the "dwarf toss". The interesting appearance of the overlaps is what attracted me to bolt the route. Although rather short in length, it probably warrants 3 stars.
Nov 26, 2012
Peter S put a hurtin on that little dwarf yesterday. Nice send Peter !