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Unsorted Routes:

Dutch Maiden 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Sloan - 1992
Page Views: 1,136
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 6, 2008
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In the middle of Dutch Maiden.

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Description 

Dutch Maiden packs a lot of pump into a short route, saving up a final crux for the last move to the anchors.

Climb crimpy holds and occasional positive horizontals past three bolts to the top.


Location 

Red Light District; starts on a ledge above the trail about 10' left of Mammplitude.


Protection 

Three bolts; bolted anchors.



Photos of Dutch Maiden Slideshow Add Photo
Dutch Maiden in the background.  Mammplitude to the immediate right.
Dutch Maiden in the background. Mammplitude to th...
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By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Jan 21, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

3rd bolt is still missing.

By willeslinger
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Does anyone know if a hold has been knocked off anywhere on the route? The space between the fist and second bolt is incredibly bare for a the grade, I climb typically climb 5.10 and I couldn't make it up to the second bolt without a few nasty whippers.

But, it could just be that the climbing isn't suited to my personal strengths on the rock, but man, it was stiff for the grade.

By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Dec 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I wondered if a hold hadnt broken between the third bolt and the anchors (or maybe it was 2nd to third bolt). Anybody have beta on the moves to the anchors? Also wasnt sure which way to go...Left or Right to get to the final pocket, as the face straight up, was straight up bald. Didnt think the route wasnt very natural based on the bolt placement. I too regularly climb 10s and this was no 10a. 10b minimum. Couple of fun moves at the bottom, but dont see why this is a highly rated route... at least under the current conditions.

By Adam Macke
Jan 24, 2011

Gotta smear boys!

By Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Did this one in June, lots of fun! The crux for me was the last move to the chains, but I didn't see the jug hold above the anchors either. There is a cool expansion move on crimpy holds between the second and third bolts (or 3rd and 4th?). Either way, cool route.

By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I was told that a hold broke off near the top making this climb around the 10b range. Comparing Dutch Maiden to Mammplitude (just right of it) the ratings should be reversed in my opinion.

Rothman - I always go right at the last bolt to reach the anchors.

By rosslbeard12
From: Buford
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I agree with Marlin the route directly to the right while thin at the bottom gets progressively better holds to the top while Dutch Maiden at the top while fighting the pump gets extremely thin. Dutch Maiden 10b Mammplitude 10a?

By Austin Eddy
From: Knoxville, TN
Jul 1, 2013

This route is missing the 3rd bolt. If you were to fall near the anchors you would deck out.