Dust to Dust  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 14, 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  John Steiger on Sep 17, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a somewhat intricate line that starts out mellow, but turns spooky as it works around several small roofs with some questionable pro and a short section of suspect rock. Not destined to be popular, but it might merit two stars for those who seek some spice in their cragging.

Just to the right of the start of Weed Killer is an obvious roof band maybe 20 feet off the ground. Begin on gray rock touching down just right of the roof band. Climb up and left, over the far right end of the roof band, to catch an obvious crack system in a small dihedral. Cruise up the crack until forced to step left. Face climb up, staying right near the arête formed by edge of the face, into a large right-facing dihedral, capped by a roof extending right. Make a few moves in the dihedral until possible to step left onto a small ledge. At this point, one can easily escape onto Weed Killer, which is about 6 feet to the left, but Dust moves right under another roof to some hanging blocks. Climb cautiously over the blocks to easier ground leading to the Weed Killer chains.

Location 

Between Weed Killer to the left and Deep Dark Crack on the right.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, possibly supplemented by microcams or small TCUs. Extra runners. No fixed pro. Expect some new route detritus (wear helmets). Rap from the Weed Killer chains (a 70 meter rope will work, but otherwise use two ropes), or continue up Weed B Gone or one of the other routes leading to the top and walk off.