Dusk In Dogtown  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Mark Smedley and Jim Black 1980 Submitted By:  Brian Milhaupt on Oct 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Great route, one of the more obscure approaches ho...

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.

Protection 

This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.

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great/only warm-up for adjacent routes