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Durrance Approach

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 

Durrance Approach Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.59002, -104.71425 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,917
Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 10, 2002


67° | 39°

51° | 39°

70° | 44°

56° | 33°

56° | 32°
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This approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day.

Getting There 

Take the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces.

Durrance can also be reached by following the approach for the south/east faces until the start of the ramp. At this point, some scrambling/lower 5th class rock is required to get up to the base of the route and should probably be roped up.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.5 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Durrance Approach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Durrance Approach:
Durrance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Sundance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   
Wiessner   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 275'   
Pseudo- Wiessner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Rangers Are People Too   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Manifest Destiny   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 155'   
Fritz's Fantasy   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
P.O.T.C.   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
Direct Southwest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Lovely Liana   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Black-Jones Direct   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Durrance Approach

Featured Route For Durrance Approach
Rock Climbing Photo: The 1st 2 Pitches of Durrance

Durrance 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach
The Durrance route is listed as one of the 50 classic climbs in North America. A 4-6 pitch route that tops out at the summit. The climb is mainly off-width and hand-crack with a few spots of chimney. You also get the choice of working a small traverse. Don't forget to register at the Visitor's Center before and after the climb. This is a crowded route and a few minutes can mean the difference between success and failure. Either plan to arrive around 5:30 AM or, if your fast and have headlamps, t...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Durrance Approach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Durrance Area. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Durrance Area. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4 Durance
P4 Durance
Rock Climbing Photo: My Southwest Buttress Hurts...
BETA PHOTO: My Southwest Buttress Hurts...
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't forget your wide gear!
Don't forget your wide gear!

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