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This approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day.
Take the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Durrance Approach
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Durrance Approach:
Centennial A2 Aid, 4 pitches, 550'
Double-Edged Blade 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b A3 Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300'
Sundance 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad
Durrance 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Late for Dinner 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b A2+ Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'
Wiessner 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Pseudo- Wiessner 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad
Manifest Destiny 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 155'
Rangers Are People Too 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
P.O.T.C. 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Black-Jones Direct 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Direct Southwest 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Lovely Liana 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Featured Route For Durrance Approach
Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach
A great face climb up the Wiessner Column. Sustained throughout with a handful of cruxy moves and occasional rests. There are a few loose flakes to beware of. Overall it is excellent.Belay from a bolted station a ways below the column and solo up wide cracks (or bring some large pieces) to the first bolt. Resist the temptation to stem to the neighboring columns!...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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