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durable trad shoes?
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Feb 3, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Super crack
I've always used sportiva mostly the methos and love them but I seem to have a way of blowing them out quick. I had a pair of tc pros that were a bit more durable. Looking for any suggestions of other companies models that might be more durable and climb similary for moderate trad.
Ross Hokett
From Little Rock, AR
Joined Jun 19, 2011
210 points
Feb 3, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Imaginate
Mythos are thin soft leather so they are going to be less durable.

The TC pros are pretty good, but the rubber at a seam on the sides always wears out. You can combat this with freesole, a flexible adhesive that you can use to beef up parts of your shoe. I put protective layers of it on all my high use areas. The freesole wears off at about the same rate as sticky rubber would, but then you just add a new patch of freesole and it wears out instead of your shoe rubber or leather.

When freesole dries it is not very sticky like rubber, so try not to get any on the bottom's of your shoes. For the sides or your crack climbing shoes it really doesn't need to be sticky and protects your shoes for a long time.
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Feb 3, 2013
Have you tried better footwork?

I had problems with the strap on my Katanas wearing out too fast, and I consistently wear a hole through the top of Moccasyms, but I've used both for years at Vedauwoo, and can't say that I ever tore them up so fast as to be unresolable before I even noticed.
Brian Scoggins
From Laramie, WY
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,205 points
Feb 3, 2013
Try out the 5.10 newtons. They are cheaper, just as good, and a little more durable. Some people like em, some people don't, but keep them in mind. thomas.w
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 11, 2011
8 points
Feb 3, 2013
what part are ya wearing out ...

that determines what shoe would be more "durable" and what to improve footwork wise

for reference when im climbing 6 days a week 12+ pitches a day ... i wear out shoes in 1-2 months max
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,973 points

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