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6. Echo Roof
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Dunn's Diversion 
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Wizard Of Oz 

Dunn's Diversion 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c X

   
Type: Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Toproped by Jim Dunn, Spring 1980 Led by John Bouchard, Fall 1983
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: pointy on Jan 19, 2007
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Description 

Great hard friction practice. Glide up the spotless face between Seventh Seal and Ethereal Crack. The easiest access to the anchors is via The Beelzebub Corner.


Location 

Just beyond The Echo Roof itself lies a giant leaning flake, The Ethereal Crack Buttress. This route climbs the barren face between the two finger cracks on the buttress.


Protection 

A toprope problem. Bouchard "led" this route with hooks and screamers for protection.



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 2, 2010

RUMORED to have had side runner in Ethereal during the first lead.

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Apr 23, 2013

Old school 11b? More like modern 12? Hard. Almost onsighted it... Only fell twice.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 24, 2013

Wow.. 12??? NO...Shit i wonder what Unwanted Guests will get rated now ??

Next time , try Aiwass just above.. really old school that may be atouch more than 12A I guess

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Apr 24, 2013

It kinda felt harder than future but probably because it was more sustained vs a short section. Kinda felt easier too cause it wasnt secure. I like this better than Future Shock

By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2013

Definitely harder than Future Shock, but I only TR'd Dunn's. Future Shock seems much easier with modern shoes and should be downgraded; it felt on grade in EBs. John, Aiwass is awesome, though I fell a bit short personally on it. Hella fun though, and some fun climbing above as well.

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Apr 24, 2013

Now I want to try unwanted guests. And ego trip, and rapid transit. I just feel good with steep slabs I guess. I like them.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 24, 2013

Give Clean Sweep a chance, then do the direct finish i give it 12C.... you need to go to the Captain 11a , perfect.. really

By burlap submariner
May 5, 2013

there is just no way that the direct line in Dunn's is 12, ive climbed this a bunch of times and its only slightly harder than future shock, which is 11a/b at best. Last Tango is much harder than both but is a short burly boulder problem. try bits and pieces above Loose Lips, if you think that dunn's is 12 then you will find this quite the challenge, strando says the falls are clean. I wouldnt know, I didnt fall....