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The Upper Wall
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Dunn's Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Dunn
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Katy H on Sep 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Being tall helps for the first move, good jugs out right. Watch out for some sandy holds right below big ledge underneath anchors of first pitch. 2nd pitch is the obvious dihedral up to anchors. It's tempting to traverse over and jump on Sassafras.

Location 

This is on the right side of First Buttress, it is the obvious dihedral. The first pitch ends on big ledge that is used for Sassafras belay. Rappel off anchors to ledge, then from the ledge to ground.

Protection 

Standard rack. 2 bolt anchors.


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By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 12, 2009

This is a quality route. I always felt it was harder, a solid nine.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Nov 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This and Left Hand were my first 5.8 leads. I always felt that first pitch was kind of a highball boulder problem. Seems like I could never find any pro that I liked and I did it different every time. 2nd pitch dihedral is great for a 1st time leader, eats stoppers and hexes (showing my age).
By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Feb 23, 2011

Quality crack climbing, but the lower section is more of a scramble. The thorn bush about half way up requires you to turn up the left face. I wouldn't say it's a good first lead, but a good first "real" lead. Make sure you have a 70m rope if you try to do it in 1 pitch.
By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Sep 15, 2011

The 1st pitch is really just the approach to the super classic (IMO) 2nd pitch of this climb. Good pitch to introduce your hair gelled, bolt loving, "5.10" sport leading friends to "Old School" 5.8 trad climbing. Bring some small pro for the first 25ft or so. This was my first 5.8 lead in the Taylor, and I've loved it ever since.