||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Dunn, Green, Snively, Rasmusson, 73 FFA: Achey, Randall, 82|
|Page Views: ||7,746|
|Submitted By: ||George Bell on Sep 5, 2002|
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Its small and takes some blue collar effort, but i...
This route is less well known than Primrose Dihedrals but is very nice. It is the easiest free route up Moses and consists mostly of 5.9 and 10- with one short but burly crux pitch. The route is on the northwest face of Moses, so it is generally shady. The upper part of the route is very obvious, following a huge right facing corner left of Moses' chin when looking from the parking lot.
P1 (45m): Solve a boulder problem through a small overhang (5.9+) to reach a discontinuous right facing dihedral. Follow this up and left (5.8). This crack widens just before the belay and a #4.5 Camalot is useful here, but is not necessary if you are willing to run it out a bit. Belay from a large ledge below an overhanging right facing corner.
P2 (60m): Climb the corner (10-) and continue up to the base of a chimney. You should probably belay here if you do not have a 60m rope or are experiencing rope drag. Climb partway up the chimney and then exit left, face climbing (5.9 R) and then following a left facing corner all the way up to a gigantic ledge (5.8). There are 2 bolts on the right side of this ledge. If you follow the chimney too far it turns into a 5.10+ squeeze ending atop a flake (slings). From here you can still traverse left to the big ledge.
Move the belay left 50' to the base of the crux corner.
P3 (25m): The crux pitch. Follow the right facing corner past an undercling (5.10+), then climb 20' of burly fist crack (5.11-). There are some desert bolts left of this crack, but you will also need several #3.5-#4 Camalots. Where the crack turns overhanging, crank into a cave not visible from below and belay.
P4 (45m): Burrow back into the cave and then exit straight up (5.8). This is a bizarre but quite easy pitch and you must squeeze through a very tight constriction. If you are a really big guy you may not fit (my chest size is 41" and I had to exhale). The only other option is to follow the main crack up, it is supposedly 5.11 offwidth and looks horrific. Belay from 2 bolts on a large ledge just below the top.
P5 (15m): Climb past 2 bolts (5.8) to the summit.
Descent: 4 Rappels down the North Face (Pale Fire route). The first rappel is only about 60', then do 3 more double rope raps. There are 2 hanging stances which are rather unpleasant, but at least the old decaying bolts have been replaced.
Standard desert rack plus extra #3.5 and #4 Camalots for the crux.
AC coming up to the first belay, Dunn Route.
3rd Pitch, beware the 10+ rating
Post climb posing with Pale Fire on the left side ...
BETA PHOTO: Freaky Cave, top of the 3rd pitch.
Hope my old topo helps. Dunn via the crawl is the...
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Dunn Route.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1- climb bouldery, loose rock to obvious cra...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the cave/spelunking pitch
By Jeff Bevan
Mar 5, 2008
Did this route around 1988 or 89 and didn't have much to go on. When I got into the cave to belay and looked out at the "horrific" overhanging offwidth looming over me I nearly shat myself. Imagine my surprise when I found the cave exit in the back of the cave. Fun route!
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 2, 2008
Pete, I still have the postcard you guy's sent me while on that trip just to rub it in good that I was still in school. I also remember the Mets that year in the playoff games I assumed with great glee you guys had missed the whole series with the Philies. No you came home and had gotten KOA out in Taylor Canyon. You heard the Mookie Wilson miracle and had gotten in some great first ascents and great early repeats.... Argh!
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Feb 2, 2014
Trout gets the credit for the 4th pitch crawl. When we did this and got to the belay cave at the end of the 3rd pitch, he pointed out the possibility; a debris chocked crack of light in the back of the chimney. We were both game to eliminate the original 5.11 offwidth, so I sat patiently while Ken began excavations. After about an hour of concerted effort and a great deal of dirt, we were able to barely squeeze through, sans harnesses.
By Hank Caylor
From: Golden, CO
May 3, 2014
You don't need any 4 Camalots on the 3rd pitch!! Take 3 #3s and 2 #3.5s. Felt rather harder than 11- but it was my 1st rockclimb in Moab yesterday. INCREDIBLE summit. All super manky belays with pitons and various metals pounded into holes wrapped in tat.. Classic!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 15, 2015
Great route, not as good as primrose, but fun. PM me if you need detailed beta.