A unique wall in the Gorge with very few routes, but with three of the Red's best trad lines and one of the most beautiful top-outs as well. Frenchburg Overhangs is a fun, long climb with abundant holds and great protection that is a must do for any 5.8 trad leader. To the right are two classic and beautiful moderate crack climbs, The Beeneling and What's Left of the Beeneling. All routes top out via a short scramble climber's left of the large overhang at the end of the climbs although it is more easily accessible via Frenchburg Overhangs.
Park in the pull-off for Phantasia wall (1 mile up the road from the intersection of KY 77 and KY 715) where the road turns. Walk back down the road a few minutes to another (small) pull-off and hike down to the creek. Cross the creek, and find the old trail (or don't) to the right of the small ridges and hike straight uphill to the cliff. Approach time 10-15 minutes, once you find it. The rock cliff is slightly visible from the approach.
2 Total Routes
Featured Route For Dunkan Rock
What's Left of the Beeneling 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b KY : Red River Gorge : Dunkan Rock
Offwidth your way up 25 feet of solid, clean BD no. 5 crack to a good rest in the chimney. Chimney up to a bomber #4 placement (it's not as far away as it looks), and jam out the overhanging fist crack. Be careful of the death blocks pulling onto the ledge, then layback, undercling, and jam to the chains. The death blocks may or may not be there much longer... do NOT try to stand on them. ...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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