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Dung Beetle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,164
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another route up this fun (but often crowded) slab... It shares the same feel as the rest of the routes on this face but adds a fun and challenging move over (or around) a roof at the top...

A very moderate slab leads to a hard pull over the small roof at the top... Going straight over the roof is 5.9... You can avoid the direct roof move by going around to the right at 5.8...


Location 

Between False Modesty and Easy Terms...


Protection 

4 bolts to anchor



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Is there bad fall potential pulling the roof, would you hit the slab below if you blew this move?

By losbill
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nah, you are good to go at the overhang. It is well bolted. Its been a few years but if I remember correctly trending to the left side, maybe a bit of a crack there over the overhang is the "sporty" way to get it done.

I think Jim might have put this up. One of you locals should stop at The Barn and confirm with him.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Ok thank you, I am ice climbing with Jim on thurs I will inquire with him about it

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I talked to Jim Shimberg today and he did get the FA. And I quote him "that route is a pill of dung...", I haven't done it so I couldnt tell you if I agree or not.

By losbill
Jan 7, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Jim is a very modest guy.

I don't agree about it being a pile of dung. The first part of the route has a number of good, challenging moves. Things lighten up a bit in the middle. The overhang at the end taken on directly; not jogging out right, up and back left to the clips; adds interest and challenge at the end.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes Jim is the most modest person I have ever met he will tell you a route is a pile just so you don't think he did anything cool, because he doesn't want the fanfare. Its a nice change from the arrogance people sometime develop from being well known.

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 10, 2009

Last time I was on this was monday 9/7. The nut on the bolt just under the roof was half off. Tightened it as much as i could by hand and cranked the hanger against the rock and lowered off of it. Dont know if it was pulled out. Next time im on it i will bring a wrench.

By CraigM
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route has an awesome bouldery start to gain the ledge to the first bolt, from there it is easier sustained technical slab climbing to a roof. You can either go straight up the roof from the bolt or work a bit right and pull the roof from there. Either way, the begining and end are the best parts.
All bolts were tight...