Tristan Hechtel on Dunce Rock
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a relatively easy and fun tower (with a couple harder-looking routes on it...) that is close to the parking lot.
From campsite #3, walk toward the tower and right and down into a draw/dry streambed. You'll reach a point where two dry streambeds meet. Go up the left one (there will be a large bush at the mouth). Follow that for a ways and then cut left to the base of the tower.
Weather station 9.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Dunce Rock
Unknown 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
: Moab Area
: ... : Dunce Rock
If this isn't the North Face route described in Desert Rock III, then I don't know what it is. It IS, however, an "obvious route on the north side of the tower" (as stated in the book). And it's easy.Climb up a short 4th class section to a large ledge. Make a couple easy moves (these can be protected by a cam and/or a sling around a horn if desired) to the first of five drilled fixed/drilled pitons. A few of the pins stick out, but some of them may have tie-off slings on them. Climb C1 to the to...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Dunce Rock from the campground.
Tristan Hechtel on dunce rock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2011
Don't waste your time. The rock quality is terrible, even for Fisher Towers. My friend and I both broke off numerous holds. Unsafe. 04/18/2011
From: Vail, CO
Mar 18, 2013
I got the bolt ladder free at 5.10+? or something today. Hard to rate. Really quality climbing! Don't know if that's the FFA of the tower? Either way, I think it's a fun route to check out especially those looking to get on something free rather then just Lizard Rock and the Cobra. Though I don't think you would want to take whips on those pins but they would probably hold. It's a sport climb now!! :)