Dunce Rock with snow
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a relatively easy and fun tower (with a couple harder-looking routes on it...) that is close to the parking lot.
From campsite #3, walk toward the tower and right and down into a draw/dry streambed. You'll reach a point where two dry streambeds meet. Go up the left one (there will be a large bush at the mouth). Follow that for a ways and then cut left to the base of the tower.
Weather station 9.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Dunce Rock
: Moab Area
: ... : Dunce Rock
This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladde...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Tristan Hechtel on dunce rock
Tristan Hechtel on Dunce Rock
BETA PHOTO: Dunce Rock from the campground.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2011
Don't waste your time. The rock quality is terrible, even for Fisher Towers. My friend and I both broke off numerous holds. Unsafe. 04/18/2011
From: Vail, CO
Mar 18, 2013
I got the bolt ladder free at 5.10+? or something today. Hard to rate. Really quality climbing! Don't know if that's the FFA of the tower? Either way, I think it's a fun route to check out especially those looking to get on something free rather then just Lizard Rock and the Cobra. Though I don't think you would want to take whips on those pins but they would probably hold. It's a sport climb now!! :)