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Fun jamming and liebacking are to be had on this route with the crux being a bulge partway up where you must jam your hands and smear your feet. At the top set an anchor just below the top and belay; to descend walk right (east) and rap from bolts atop Lucky Lady with a single rope.
Yet another great route in an area stacked with classics; done in conjunction with several of the others in the area it makes for an excellent half to all day destination. Be warned though that this area is extremely popular, so plan accordingly if your route of choice is taken.
This attractive crack is located on the narrow east face of Houser Buttress and requires a bit of scrambling to reach the base. From the base of Puss N' Boots head right, turn the corner and then up boulders to an alcove at the base of the route.
Gear to 3.5"
BETA PHOTO: "Dummy's Delight" climbs the right-arching crack.
Scott Nomi follows.
Scott Nomi follows, higher up.
|Comments on Dummy's Delight
|By Kevin Currigan|
Feb 16, 2004
Starts easy with some big gear then gets into the meat of the matter with medium size cams and nuts. I think I also used the #s 9 and 10 BD hexes. Great climb; burly!
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Wow! This route is way Classic! It doesn't look like much from the ground but when you get into it, the jams are crazy cool keep you pumped for more.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Hard and awkward for the grade.
|By Russ Walling|
Nov 10, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Always liked this one. Instead of using the crack for your hands, you can do a walk the plank type thing in the middle of the route. Spicy!
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 3, 2008
Yeah, this is one of those "what the f^^k?" JT cracks that keeps you thinking - burly indeed.
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Nov 12, 2012
Really nice moves through most of the crack (if you can finesse it right)-- an array of crack sizes and perhaps a satisfying layback move or two. Haha, walking the plank would be crazy, Russ!!!
I got a little awkward towards the end (bad feet), but I'm sure it could be done in better style. I'd say that it earns the 3 stars. On the harder end of 5.9 IMO.
|By Jeremy Werlin|
Apr 13, 2013
Somewhat of an underground classic. Despite the 3 stars this one does not have much chalk on it. Great sustained movement.