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Start left of the Direct Route and follow the crack to the shared first Belay on the direct route. Continue up the Direct Route, then head left. There is a large eye bolt at the end of the second pitch. Follow the steeper slot (5.8R) through the overhangs up to a belay off a sturdy pass through. There is no gear for the crux, which is about 40 feet off the belay eyelet. Veer left or right tackling the roof above or heading off left. Finish the last 2-3 pitches as Direct Route to the summit.
Options: With a seventy meter rope, it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches into two. There is a belay about halfway through the second pitch at a left-leaning flake. Aliens would be prudent for the pin scars.
Start at the belay station for Standard. Nice alternative day out.
Sparce at times. Metolius blue through big purple will get you there. Pink and red tricams are nice also. If you could trust them, Aliens would be nice in that range.
BETA PHOTO: This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R),...
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