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Dumais Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,084
Submitted By: percious on Feb 12, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Percious cruising through the crux pitch.

Photo...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start left of the Direct Route and follow the crack to the shared first Belay on the direct route. Continue up the Direct Route, then head left. There is a large eye bolt at the end of the second pitch. Follow the steeper slot (5.8R) through the overhangs up to a belay off a sturdy pass through. There is no gear for the crux, which is about 40 feet off the belay eyelet. Veer left or right tackling the roof above or heading off left. Finish the last 2-3 pitches as Direct Route to the summit.

Options: With a seventy meter rope, it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches into two. There is a belay about halfway through the second pitch at a left-leaning flake. Aliens would be prudent for the pin scars.


Location 

Start at the belay station for Standard. Nice alternative day out.


Protection 

Sparce at times. Metolius blue through big purple will get you there. Pink and red tricams are nice also. If you could trust them, Aliens would be nice in that range.



Photos of Dumais Direct Slideshow Add Photo
This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R), which uses some climber-left variants to the Direct. It is a fun route and climbs very well (though the pro on P1-3 is runout, it's a soft .8). The first pitch goes to the first bolt then cuts left and goes into an overhang with a crack. P2 is similar to Direct and goes to a bolt & crack for belay anchor. P3 goes up and left to thin & wild section to an overhang & belay stance for 2, small gear. Be aware the last time I climbed this the belay here is a flake that was fractured, a factor 2 fall could be bad!! However, the P4 climbing grade eases (It also gets a little steeper, but it's a jugfest) to join up the Direct at the false summit. <br /> <br />Just a great & fun route! <br /> <br />Original photo submitted to mp.com by: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001 <br /> <br />Comment by Mark Nelson
BETA PHOTO: This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R),...
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