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Easy runout to the base of an obvious crack. The crux is right off the slab and is protected by a bolt. The difficulties begin with a sharp off-hands crack which gives way to strenuous hands and fists to the top.
Addendum per guide book:
Skirt right of the bolt and back to the crack on p1 to make it 10a
P2: Climb a wide crack along an arch to a bolted anchors, 5.8 70 ft
P3: Pull over a 5.9 bulge and belay after 100ft
P4: scramble up easier ground and descend as for the nose
Hike in as for the Nose and head downhill and north from the the base of the Nose. Walk past a large slab and find the obvious crack.
A single bolt at the crux. Wide range of passive gear. Multiples in the 2-3 camalot range. Rap the nose route.
Hanging out just past the crux
The famous Quinn pumping out but making progress o...
Having fun on Dum Dee Dum Dum
|By Bob Rotert|
Apr 25, 2007
There are two ways to do this route free. The original way, done by Bob Mitchell, went up to the base of the crack, did an undercling out right & then traversed back left to enter the crack above the first flared section of crack.
The other way is to climb the crack direct. This was first done by Henry Barber on his visit to Looking Glass.. Probably the way most folks do it these days.
|By Mike Carnes|
Oct 20, 2007
Jamming the flared section proved to be really difficult for me. Look forward to doing the whole climb next time I am there. The hand crack after the flare probably isn't much harder than 5.8.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Jul 27, 2009
The first pitch was interesting, but the remainder of the route was not so good. I looked for quite awhile, but couldn't find any moves approaching 5.9 on the third pitch...just a bunch of low angle, very mossy slab climbing.
Nov 30, 2009
Very fun climbing. Crux move was not to difficult, but definitely should be approached as a lay back instead of trying to jam. I found the move getting into the actual hand crack above the crux to be more difficult.
|By Dave T|
From: Winston Salem
Apr 20, 2010
Fun Route and very safe (not PG-13)
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Burly crux on this one. I thought the hardest part was getting into the finishing crack. Potentially a long fall from here if you don't place any gear above the bolt. You could get a hand sized piece in the only good jam between the two cracks... not worth it. So make sure you're belayer is awake. Not dangerous, just heads up.
Doing the traverse bypasses the first hard move, but not really the second. You'll have to do a solid 5.10 section either way unless your 6'4''.
Jun 1, 2012
This route is an unheralded classic, no matter how many pitches you do. Mike Anderson was clearly off route on the third pitch. Two stars Mike? Really? After the bolt on P1 you can sink a bomber #1 or 2 and still have room for your hands. This might be the best splitter hand crack in NC.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 18, 2012
Still the biggest sandbag on LG at 10c or just extremely condition/height dependent. I would say the best hand crack on that cliff is P2 of the Odyssey and best in the state would have to go to something at GT. Tried it again, probably sub-optimal conditions, but getting into the easy crack to the anchor was difficult. If you like your ankles, you will place #1 after the bolt before getting into the easy crack as it doesn't interfere with the highest jam. No fancy belaying will keep you off the slab if you fall that high above the bolt.
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I cannot imagine laying back this beast.
I have long fingers I admit. So I can cup hands-jam that flaring pod above the bolt and then I straight jam through the second crux to get to the good jams above. Placing gear is the tricky bit (see above comments)
I seriously feel that I would drop a nut (not the aluminum variety) trying to lieback.
Finesse straight in Jams. Think about it.
(I'm 5'11" with a decent reach)