Dugana. 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Ross Patrick Moe. 3rd April 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | USBRIT on Apr 9, 2010 |
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First pitch.200' 5.3R
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Description The climb involves two easy slab pitches to gain the entrance to a narrow slot canyon with 400' sides.Two pitches of more interest are made up the south side wall. P1) Start up the left side of the easy angled slab just left of a shallow groove. Straight up past a bolt at 130' to double anchors.200' 5.3R. P2)Continue up pasted faint double cracks past a bolt at 50'. The climbing gets easy to the left side of the entrance to the slot canyon. 200' 5.6R. P3)scramble along the bed of the canyon for 200' to a slab just right of a dark brown corner. P4) Climb the center of the slab trending slightly right then past two bolts to double anchors.200'5.8R. P5)Straight up past two bolts.Follow dark serrated slab trending right to double anchors.200'5.8R. Descent. Rap the route.
Location From the pull camping spot for Little Spotted Wolf canyon ,On the right about 2.1 miles from I.70 entrance.The walk to the climb takes abot 15 mins. Located on the north side of Aguille du Gieant formating. See Topo Photo
Protection One or two cams from 1/2" to 2", slings, Two 60m ropes.
Description The climb involves two easy slab pitches to gain the entrance to a narrow slot canyon with 400' sides.Two pitches of more interest are made up the south side wall.P1) Start up the left side of the easy angled slab just left of a shallow groove. Straight up passed a bolt at 130' to double anchors.200' 5.3R. P2)Continue up past faint double cracks a bolt at 50'. The climbing gets easy up to the left side of the entrance to the slot canyon. 200' 5.6R.P3)Scramble along the bed of the canyon for 200' to a slab just right of a dark brown corner.P4) Climb the center of the slab trending slightly right then up passed two bolts to double anchors.200'5.8R. P5)Straight up passed two bolts to double anchors.200'5.8R
Location From the pull camping spot for Little Spotted Wolf canyon ,On the right about 2.1 miles from I.70 entrance.The walk to the climb takes about 15 mins. Located on the north side of Aguille du Gieant formation. See Topo Photo
Protection One or two cams from 1/2" to 2", slings, Two 60m ropes.
Second pitch. 200' 5.6R
| Paul on the 4th pitch . Photo Pat Moe
| Pat P4
| Pat following P5.
| Back at camp.........day one
| A)Auguille Du Gieant.5.5.B).Dugana.5.8R. C. Tear i...
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