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Dues Servomachina 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Houston, Edwards (1993)
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 18, 2006
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Description 

One of the better routes at MST.

A powerful, dynamic move off of an obvious pocket leads to a glued-on [correction: glue-reinforced] jug. Above this, the angle of the overhanging wall relents, but the holds get thinner.

Clipping the bolts is strenuous. Some people reach left to gain larger holds from which to clip.


Protection 

4 bolts to open shuts. With a little creativity, it is possible to walk around to the top and establish a TR.



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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 18, 2009

glue reinforced, not glued on.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 23, 2013

Yes. That is actually what I was thinking when I typed "glued-on." Thank you for the important clarification.