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Dude's Throne

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Doodle Do S 
Brass Monkey S 
Buster Brown S,TR 
Chili Power S 
Double Dominatrix S 
Dude's Dihedral S 
Dude's Five Nine S 
Dude's Jam Crack T 
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 
Dude's Way S 
Golden Gate S 
Green Chile S 
Howdy Doody Time S 
Impeachment Day Parade S 
In Harmsen's Way S 
Jolly Rancher S 
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 
Jugs Out For The Lads S 
Major Dude S 
Mighty Aphrodite S 
Missing Link T,S 
Open Space Cowboy S 
Raven's Brew S 
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 
Short Dude S 
Sky Chi T,S 
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 

Dude's Throne Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,900'
Location: 39.86231, -105.41224 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,925
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Oct 23, 2010
Forecast:
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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Perched above Dude's Fishing Hole, this seemingly small crag yields some pretty big routes. With a largely Southwest aspect, the crag can be wonderful in the fall as long as the wind isn't howling. Because Dude's sits at a fairly high altitude, the crag is great in the summer as well. An early start yields enough sustained shade to get in a fair bit of climbing on the West and South faces. When the South face is blazing in the sun, the Throne Room on the North face offers cool respite. With a few exceptions, most notably a historic 5.11 crack climb, the routes are bolt protected sport climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Getting There 

Once in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, head to the Aspen Meadow Campground, drive through, and continue down to the parking for Dude's Fishing Hole. The crag can be seen from the parking lot and accessed with a contouring hike through the forest on an at times faint climbers' trail or by hiking up from the pond.

Per claramie: it may be worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park.

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Road, which becomes Gap Road, then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

L->R: 

North Face

A. Chili Power, 11, 1p, 25', bolts.
B. Red Hot Chili Peppers, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Green Chile, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

West Face

D. Jolly Rancher, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Jolly Squeeze Party, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
F. Uplift Mofo Party Plan, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Major Dude, 12+, 1p, bolts.
H. Golden Gate, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.

South Face
I. Brass Monkey, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
J. Dude's Dihedral, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Mighty Aphrodite, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
L. Short Dude, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
M. Raven's Brew, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
N. Howdy Doody Time, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
ON. Missing Link, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
O. Open Space Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 85', bolts.
P. Double Dominatrix, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
Q. Impeachment Day Parade, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
R. Dude's Jam Crack, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
S. Buster Brown, 13-, 1p, 80' bolts.
T. Sky Chi, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.

U. In Harmsen's Way, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
VU. Dude's Way, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
W. Dude's Five Nine, 9, 1p, 45', bolts.
X. Any Doodle Do, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Jugs Out For The Lads, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.

Cell Phone Coverage 

Per J. Broussard: there is no cell phone coverage at this crag.

Regulations 

Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, Dude's Throne is within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. Thank you.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',14],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dude's Throne

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dude's Throne:
Jolly Squeeze Party   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Mighty Aphrodite   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dude's Jam Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Short Dude   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Dude's Way   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Howdy Doody Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dude's Dihedral   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Uplift Mofo Party Plan   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Green Chile   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Sky Chi   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Impeachment Day Parade   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Golden Gate   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Open Space Cowboy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Red Hot Chili Peppers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Major Dude   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Brass Monkey   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Double Dominatrix   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Buster Brown   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dude's Throne

Featured Route For Dude's Throne
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool climb.

Buster Brown 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CO : Golden : ... : Dude's Throne
There is clean, solid rock all the way on this one. Buster Brown is an elegant technical route. Moderate climbing starts up a fun tight hands crack, over a pillar, and through a small roof. From the jugs above the roof begin the hard climbing by breaking hard right to a left-angling flake/dike and follow it to another small rooflet with underclings. From here, gain a finger crack and follow it to a large flake and jugs out left. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor. This is a pretty sustained...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Dude's Throne Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken at Dude's at sunset.
Taken at Dude's at sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: West face of Dude's Throne. The photo doesn...
BETA PHOTO: West face of Dude's Throne. The photo doesn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kirk Miller on Golden Gate, Photo by Vaino Kodas.
Kirk Miller on Golden Gate, Photo by Vaino Kodas.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the road.
From the road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Vaino Kodas on Golden Gate, 5.11d.
Vaino Kodas on Golden Gate, 5.11d.
Rock Climbing Photo: Red arrow marks cairn, after leaving parking area,...
Red arrow marks cairn, after leaving parking area,...

Comments on Dude's Throne Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2014
By Ken McVicker
May 22, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Was scouting the area and found a nut tool attached to a biner at the bottom of the wall along with a pair of sunglasses. If they are yours, tell me something about them, and I'll get them to you.
By Sam Schabacker
Jun 14, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
I left a pair of belay specs at the base of Buster Brown last Saturday. If you find them, would you pleas message me? Gratitude and karma (plus a six pack) will be your reward. Thanks!
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 19, 2010
For the complete beta to Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and the Grendel, I just released a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" (September 2010) that retails for $20.00. The guide is a complete guide to North Table Mountain including its four quarry walls. The latter part of the book is devoted to the sport climbs near Dude's Fishing Hole in Golden Gate State Park. Yes, it is quite the contrast to North Table's slick basalt and urban setting. For the warm season when the rattlesnakes come out on Table Mountain, head to mountains and nearby Golden Gate for the granite crags above 9,000 feet in beautiful, serene, pine forests. Dude's Throne is one of my favorite crags in Colorado with over 25 routes. Enjoy!
By M Lindfors
From: Highlands Ranch
Jun 5, 2011
Really cool place. Lots of fun climbs makes the hike up there worth it.
By Andrew S.
From: Bouldurr
Jul 22, 2011
Dude's Throne is a way cool place to climb. Went up there yesterday, perfect weather, got rained on twice for about 5-10 min then cleared up again. All the rock is in great shape. There are some small shrubby plants at the base of Howdy Doody Time but can be easily avoided, and the rock is seeping water from all the rain.
By Bruce Pech
Mar 20, 2012
I haven't been climbing for a few years (illness, injuries) and wondered if Dude's Dihedral is still rated 11-. As I recall from a 2008 ascent, it seemed hard for the grade (or I was off-route).
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Mar 21, 2012
Good to hear your getting back out there again, Bruce.
Mark Rolofson gives Dude's Dihedral .11b in Golden Rock Climbs. The crux sequence feels like .11 to me.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 27, 2012
We got stormed off of Dude's Throne pretty quickly today. Because of all the lightning, we ended up leaving draws on buster brown (just left of Dude's Jam Crack). I'll be back up to rescue them on Sunday.... I'm just asking if everyone will be so kind as to leave them up there until then :). Makes for some good non-committal climbing if you're headed out tomorrow. Thanks!
By Andy Donson
Aug 16, 2013
Lame question: do you get cell phone service up here?
Thanks
Andy
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Nov 10, 2013
Awesome crag in the park, most of the routes are extremely well-protected and allow you to make the crux moves without worrying about protection.
By Rob Meringolo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 6, 2014
Found a jacket and dog leash at the base, smack in the middle of the crag. Send a message with a description, and I can reunite items and owner.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2014
Maybe worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park (like we did the first time).

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west for about 7 miles. Then turn left on Twin Spruce Gap Road, which becomes Gap Road. Then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

Enjoy! The routes are pretty fun, and it's a chill approach.
By J. Broussard
From: CordryCorner
Oct 14, 2014
Huge crowds last weekend. I've never seen more than just a few parties up here in the past. Fortunately, everyone was climbing really hard, making it easy to move around between the moderates (10s and easy 11s).

Seeing the bolting on the stiffer lines, I'm encouraged to get on something more challenging.

No cell reception at the crag, but just west of the entrance to the campground (~3/4mile) is a high point on the road where reception is excellent.

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