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Chester Rock
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Duct Tape and Candy S 
Forfeit The Bail S 

Duct Tape and Candy 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Cardmon
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: steple on Aug 8, 2011

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Chalking up in the wrong spot: The good hold is tw...

Description 

This route features thin crimping and technical moves. It is sustained, although it gets slightly easier the higher you get. The rock quality could be better and some holds might change their shape if this route sees more traffic.

Clip the first bolt from the big undercling, before you actually get on the wall. Getting situated on the wall is probably the crux. The holds are small and sharp. Once on the wall, get the second clip and pick the right sequence to get to slightly easier terrain about half way up the wall. To pass the third and fourth bolt good reach and high stepping are helpful.


Location 

This route is on the east face of Chester Rock. When approaching from the east, Chester Rock is hidden behind Roses are Red Crag.


Protection 

4 bolts, rap anchors.



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By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Nov 16, 2011

Fun climb. Definitely worth a go when in the garden.