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The Weeping Wall
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Ten Karat Gold 

Duck Soup 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marty Woerner, 1971
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
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Description 

This route takes the plumline up the face and features the hardest climbing of all the routes on the Weeping Wall.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue straight up past two widely spaced bolts (5.10a) to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) Two more bolts up an waterstreak (5.10c) on this short but cruxy pitch. P3) Five more bolts (5.10a) will see you to the top of the face. Descend via Bye Gully.


Protection 

bolts, gear to 2.5"



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 23, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Although this might be rated R by some folks, the holds on this route seem to be there just when one needs them. This is a great route with an obvious crux just above the middle of the route, the balance being easier but not a give-a-way.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 18, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I agree no real chance of getting hurt on this climb holds are there and if you pay attention to your feet no problem. Beautiful line!

By Brandon R.
From: San Mateo, CA
May 19, 2008

I'd definitely consider the first pitch runout, with .10- moves way out from your last bolt. I remember my shoes making a lot of squeaking noises, or was that just me?

By Adam Kimmerly
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

A fun route with some runouts, but definitely not as "R" as Ten Karat Gold. The bolts protect the cruxes well. The second (crux) pitch is a bit contrived/squeezed and the 10c moves can be relatively easily avoided by traversing right 8-10 feet away from the smears on the smooth orange rock to the crisp edges of Revelation. I thought the 3rd pitch was the best with the most sustained climbing of the three.

By Eric Foltz
From: California
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

Looks like someone added a bolt to the first pitch about halfway between bolt #2 and the belay station.

It's in kind of a strange location over near the end of the "ramp" on the second pitch of Surprise. I wasn't looking for another bolt so I climbed right past it about 6' to the right following the natural line of holds.

It might just be there to keep you from straying too far right and ending up on Revelation.

By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 11, 2010

Cool, a free bolt hanger!

By x15x15
Sep 11, 2010

this is climbing, there is always a real chance of getting hurt. i witnessed a fall on duck soup back in 1986(or 87)from the comforts of revelation. it was long, hard, and bad. the climber suffered a fractured heel bone and was out of commission for 4 months.

remember folks, climbing can lead to death rather quickly, even on the "safe" routes.