Duck A L'Orange 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Bill Foster, Bill Robins, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 18, 2005 |
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Description On the far right side of the slab with Ruddy Duck and Walking the Duckis a bolted line. It starts on the east end of the ledge system past a couple of trees. It is hard to pick out, but look for a bolt beyond where you think it should be. From that bolt it hits a ledge and then an easy clip, followed by another bolt, and a dirt/grass filled crack where the pins used to be. I saw one scar. Probably the one from the pin sitting on AC's dash. Couldn't see any others. A couple of pieces here go past the dead stump, to the last bolt and then slab it out. The last section is very flaky.
Protection 4 new 3/8" bolts on this route. The pins are missing though. Well, I couldn't see them. I was able to put a #1 Camalot in the first part of the crack, and then one shaky nut. No anchors here and not much to set one up. Good luck. I put a directional in and traversed left to the one bolt/tree anchor of Walking the Duck.
| Comments on Duck A L'Orange |
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By Lee Gitlin
Sep 19, 2005
| There is a dirty crack down low, left of the first bolt. You might want to get some pro into that crack, since a fall below the first bolt could have you doing George of the Jungle (look out for that TREE!). A fair amount of lichen and flakiness; this line does not appear to get climbed as often as it should. We had some questions about doing left to the dead tree or straight up to the boulder to end the route. There are no rap anchors as of this writing, so bring your own slings, or walk off east and down the gully. |
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2005
| Straight up the nubbins to a Trad belay up around the bolder. Too bad it doesn't stay clean...fun route!! |
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2005
| Who retro Bolted this route? Thanks! This is one of those routes that could probably bennefit from a set of chains right below the bouder...no doubt that has always been the reason it see so little action. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 8, 2009
| there is a bolted anchor now |
By Clay Borne
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.8 R
| Interesting route. Old school runouts, on flaky rock. I was going off of information listed in the Ruckman's guidebook, and was expecting to see pitons. Instead it was a dirty, overgrown crack. Once some "on the spot" gardening was done, it held three stoppers just fine. Did not expect to see anchor on top but there were 2 bolts there, of the usual variety of TC. |
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 5, 2012
| Definitely not 'R' (at least since being retro-bolted), although a slip above the 2nd bolt would hurt. |
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