|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Sean Dunlop on May 19, 2008|
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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A couple or more #3s, #3.5s will make this shorty crack pure joy. Didn't jam the left (and infinitely more protect-able) crack so much as stemmed between it and the less friendly crack on the right.
Guidebook and Mountain Project BOTH offer this "height dependent" beta BS without any explanation why. Here's why: the opening move at the midway shelf (after the initial 5.7 crack) to acquire the "duel" cracks would be mighty exciting for someone with short legs. It's a full-on opposing arms stretch between two walls, pump up to a Kungfu legs-horizontal stem (make sure you hands-in-prayer-position for a quiet moment) and only then start cramming and jamming the duel cracks. It's an effing heart stopper (and crotch ripper) unless you're over 5'10". Wear your best Chuck Norris pants and an extra pair of boxers.
ALSO: nevermind what the book says about belaying again after the first 30ft crack; there's simply no reason for it. Jam a #3.5 (or a #4 or whatever) high and left with a single runner and there's zero rope drag.
Have fun! A good one to get on if there's a conga line on Mother. Not as hard as all that....
Aug 1, 2011
|Yeah, definitely a height dependent crux. At 5'6", it felt more like 11a than 9+... easily aided though, if you want to have a good time :) Otherwise a fantastic line, the belay at 30 feet was actually really nice and a good place to get out of the sun.|