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d. Harvest Moon to the End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Across From the Fruitstand T 
Akidlleati vytoowouldn'tyou T 
D.S.B T 
Eowyn T 
Far from the Madding Crowd T 
Fossil Fools T 
Ground Control T 
Hang Ten T 
Harvest Moon T,TR 
Hold the Mayo T 
I'm OK, You're OK  T 
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 
Keystone Kop T 
King of P T 
Lean and Mean T 
Like a Box of Chocolates T 
Mac-Reppy T 
Main Line T 
Near Side of Far, The T 
Outsiders T 
Positively 4th Street T 
Punch and Judy T 
R2-OK? T 
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 
Seniors in Motion T 
Shadow Nose, The T 
Short and Sassy T 
Spinal Exam T 
Spinal Traction 
Strange Customs T,TR 
Swells Good T 
Up in Arms T 
Void Where Inhibited T 
Void Where Prohibited T 
Whatever T 

D.S.B 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, 1987
Page Views: 321
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 23, 2010

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Dangerous Sperm Backup

1. Scramble up and left up a brushy gully for about 30 feet. From the top of an obvious right-facing flake, wander up to the base of the huge right-facing corner above. 5.6+

2. Climb straight up to the roofs above; you should be about five or eight feet or so to the right of the huge corner. Over the ceilings, then go left or right to the top. 5.8

The first pitch had, it seemed to me, very suspect protection for the hardest move. After that, there is a long runout on easier ground; don't fall on this pitch.

It is hard to believe that the overhangs on pitch two yield at only 5.8, but they do. The guidebook rating for this section is 5.8+, and although I usually don't contradict the party line, this pitch just ain't hard 5.8. What isn't in dispute is the fun factor - the second pitch is a blast!

Standard 'Gunks rack.


Location 

The start is approximately 150 feet left of the left end of the Williams Wall, marked by the finger crack of King of P. The large right-facing corner can't be missed, and you can see the right-facing flake at the top of the brushy gully.


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