D.S.B  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, 1987 Submitted By:  Dana Bartlett on Mar 23, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Dangerous Sperm Backup

The start is approximately 150 feet left of the left end of the Williams Wall. The large right-facing corner can't be missed, and you can see the right-facing flake at the top of the brushy gully.

1. Scramble up and left up a brushy gully for about 30 feet. From the top of an obvious right-facing flake, wander up to the base of the huge right-facing corner above. 5.6+

2. Climb straight up to the roofs above; you should be about five or eight feet or so to the right of the huge corner. Over the ceilings, then go left or right to the top. 5.8

Standard 'Gunks rack.

The first pitch had, it seemed to me, very suspect protection for the hardest move. After that, there is a long runout on easier ground; don't fall on this pitch.

It is hard to believe that the overhangs on pitch two yield at only 5.8, but they do. The guidebook rating for this section is 5.8+, and although I usually don't contradict the party line, this pitch just ain't hard 5.8. What isn't in dispute is the fun factor - the second pitch is a blast!