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|A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>|
Dangerous Sperm Backup
1. Scramble up and left up a brushy gully for about 30 feet. From the top of an obvious right-facing flake, wander up to the base of the huge right-facing corner above. 5.6+
2. Climb straight up to the roofs above; you should be about five or eight feet or so to the right of the huge corner. Over the ceilings, then go left or right to the top. 5.8
The first pitch had, it seemed to me, very suspect protection for the hardest move. After that, there is a long runout on easier ground; don't fall on this pitch.
It is hard to believe that the overhangs on pitch two yield at only 5.8, but they do. The guidebook rating for this section is 5.8+, and although I usually don't contradict the party line, this pitch just ain't hard 5.8. What isn't in dispute is the fun factor - the second pitch is a blast!
Standard 'Gunks rack.
The start is approximately 150 feet left of the left end of the Williams Wall, marked by the finger crack of King of P
. The large right-facing corner can't be missed, and you can see the right-facing flake at the top of the brushy gully.