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Mind Mantle Arete 
Moment of Weakness 
Pigeon Pile Pinnacle 
Redrum 
Risky One (aka Best Route EVER!) 
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Table Top 
Umph 
Unknown at TT Area 

D's Dry Dream 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown????
Page Views: 1,414
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 16, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Todd Kusik almost at the crux.

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Description 

Someone, please own up to the FA of this excellent route!! D's Dry Dream begins in a deep, left-facing dihedral and breaks out right to a fine, well-featured face at 40 feet or so. This is a really fun route that can be done with most of the moves at 5.9 or below. It may get a 5.10 rating no matter how the route is done for the one move that enters the face. Start in the dihedral by climbing on the right side only and the route has a pair of 5.10 cruxes; stem the start and the route stays 5.8 or 5.9 up to the transition point that breaks out right. Both ways are a kick. This is a fun route and well worth hitting while on the hill. Two stars for the good rock, fun climbing, thoughtful moves, and being well-protected.


Protection 

QDs only. This 65 foot route needs 7 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of D's Dry Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing up to meet Drew.
Climbing up to meet Drew.
Nice view of the entire climb.  One of my personal favorites.
Nice view of the entire climb. One of my personal...
Josh Darnell on D's, Jan. 2012.
Josh Darnell on D's, Jan. 2012.
Martha setting it up.
Martha setting it up.
Chilling on top of D's.
Chilling on top of D's.
Comments on D's Dry Dream Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 25, 2002

I couldn't disagree more. The whole point of this route is NOT to use the back wall. It is quite obvious by looking at the route that you only climb the right wall with the bolts. There are some fun jams early on with a great bulge haul (which can be done by two different varations) to the slab above. The slab is great climbing in itself. If this route is not one of the better routes at the Table Pile, I don't what is. When you climb at the Pile, think about staying close to the bolt line or you will miss the fun.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 26, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Isn't the rockclimbing definition of contrived something like "you have to go out of your way to make the climb go as intended?" This is a contrived route! However, many routes at Table are contrived. I agree with David Houston.

By Doug Redosh
Nov 13, 2002

A fun route, no matter how you do it!

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I agree with Leo - if the point is to follow the bolt line in the dihedral, then this route is totally contrived! I stemmed to the first bolt then used the dihedral all the way to the top of the crack, forcing a dicey arm bar with a crappy foot jam to get out onto the face. At no point did I feel as if I was 'off-route'. What be the rating then? Are we to rate each route based on the multiple ways you can do it? I say rate it for the easiest approach. If you want to make it harder, go for it. But if you want to challenge yourself on something truly difficult, head over to a line that forces the climber to follow the hard moves (such as Mr. Squirrel).