Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Red Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Always Leave a Generous Root Tip S 
Baby Teeth S 
Bad Case of Gingervitus  S 
Bloody Impaction S 
Cavity Bones S 
Cuspidnator, The S 
Dry Socket S 
Face Plant T 
Facial Fracture S 
Gum Cheese S 
Latrogenic Pain S 
Liken Z' Planus S 
Shark's Teeth S 
Third Molar Round-Up S 

Dry Socket 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: the dentist
Page Views: 2,195
Submitted By: Jake Richens on Sep 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Getting ready to come back down

Description 

Third from the left, shares anchors with bloody impaction.

Protection 

Bolts to anchors


Photos of Dry Socket Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: nicely spaced bolts, nice hand crack in the middle...
nicely spaced bolts, nice hand crack in the middle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Christian on Dry Socket 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Christian on Dry Socket 5.8

Comments on Dry Socket Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
May 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No longer shares anchors with Bloody Impaction. Can be led safely trad, heavy on the cams, and a long runner.
By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If using the anchors for Bloody Impaction,there's much less of an issue with rope drag when TRing this route. When leading this trad, theres placements for #4-1, then it gets a little thin for gear at the top, but that parts pretty easy.
By Goat
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Interesting start, essentially a walk up to the first 2 bolts, then you hop on the ledge and get moving up following the crack to the left. Stay to the left of the clips and you'll be fine, there are two big holds above the anchors that are not easily seen until you're on top of them.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!