|858 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Consensus: ||5.7 [details]|
|FA: ||Pitch 1, Rich Perch and Ivan Rezucha, 195. Pitches 2 and 3, Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, and Lucien Warner, 1955|
|Submitted By: ||Dana Bartlett on Sep 17, 2009|
1. Start by climbing the right side of the left-facing corner, up to an overhang. Swing around right, then traverse right ~40' until you're below a stance in a right-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge/stance and build a belay. 70 feet, 5.6.
2. Climb the corner about 8-10 feet to an obvious horizontal, then traverse out left to a bolt. Pass the bolt (crux) and then go up and right for about 25 feet to some ledges. There are several you can use; one has two old pins and a fixed piece. 70 feet, 5.7.
3. Climb straight up to a corner system then on to the top. 60 feet, 5.4.
From the clifftop, walk right to various rappel stations.
At the rightmost end of the McCarthy Wall there is a large, right-facing corner system. Walk past that for about 200 feet and look for the left-facing corner that starts the route. Another 20' feet right you'll see a left-leaning crack, which is the start of Tequila Mockingbird.
Standard 'Gunks rack
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 10, 2009
A nice climb. Each pitch is very different from the next. The first pitch has a thoughtful, well protected roof. The second pitch has a couple of thin face moves protected by a shiny new bolt. The third pitch is a fun jug haul up a v shaped chimney thing. I did get lost on P2, ended up building an anchor just below the chimney.
From: New York, NY
May 29, 2011
A nice climb. I didn't like the first pitch; there is a huge loose block under the roof and the protection isn't as good as you think. As for P2, as soon as you climb the bulge (crux with bolt), start moving right and you should see the fixed pieces (2 old pins + couple of other pieces). P3 is fun climbing.
Oct 5, 2011
We did this for the first time last weekend and it was great. Most climbs were either wet from the rainstorm the previous night, or had people on them, so we decided to give this one a shot. The second belay station, consisting of two pins and a tricam, would have required traversing way out right so I just climbed straight up a bit more and set a belay a little higher. If you do a good job at placing runners, you could probably just climb straight to the GT ledge from the first belay and skip the second belay all together. You'd want a long runner on the bolt if you were going to do that. The third pitch was pretty wet, but fun nonetheless.