A long link-up route with some of the largest moves at Willow, starts on the 'Rejection and Mercy' crack then takes a hard left at the lip of the roof, bringing you to an exposed traverse across slopey ledges on the lip of this 12' horizontal roof. Then you join up with 'Cain', just in time for the bouldery redpoint crux of this route. Keep pushing through the remainder of 'Cain' to reach a perfect rest right below a set of anchors on another large roof. Either clip the anchors here or traverse left around the roof for two more bolts of climbing.
Bolts. 2 different anchors. Use long draws. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them.
The pocket crux. You actually have to leave the wi...
Dry Lightning, approaching the potentially heart b...
By Craig Huang
May 19, 2016
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fantastic. Leave the standard Willow jug-paddling behind and battle through three distinct and unique cruxes (roof crack, Dry Lightning, Couch Time) with a power-sapping traverse between two. Find the knee-bar and knee-scum. Protect the left arm...and never, never underestimate the Couch Time crux.