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Feudal Wall (Right Side)
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Dry Lake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Atherton & Todd Gordon, November 1989
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Apr 9, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: "Dry Lake".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Around the corner at the east end of the Feudal Wall and to the right of the Panther crack is a left facing lie-back crack and face. Climb to a bolt about fifteen feet above. The crux is getting by this bolt. They key is the hidden crack well to your right. If you can't reach it, the difficulty goes way up.


Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap



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By Woody Stark
Apr 12, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fine route but tricky. At the crux be sure to reach to your far right across the face and feel for the hidden crack. Without that to pull on, it will be a good deal harder. I think most of the gentle sex will find the move an eleven something or other. I failed many times before I found the key. After I made the move successfully and was reaching for the upper bolt, the damn wind blew me of, and I got to do it again.

By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 12, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Despite being a little grainy this is a fun route that's worth doing. The first bolt replaces a fixed pin placed on the FA. One and a half/two stars out of five.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 12, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I have led this route and enjoyed it very much. This past week I seconded Woody on it. It has a really cool move requiring some balancing on somewhat grainy slab at the crux. Beyond that it is pretty straight forward. A few draws, no anchors. Easy walkoff!

By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
Feb 7, 2010

did the climb today, there was three bolts after the crack, the top one looked newer, and i was extremely happy it was there.

By Richard Shore
Dec 25, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Only 2 bolts on this rig. Looks like the one that replaced a fixed pin has been chopped and patched. Crux is getting to the "first" bolt, a good distance above your last gear (#1 or 2 tcu). You probably wouldn't deck if you fell, but it'd be one hell of a whip. R rated for sure, just like it is given in the Vogel guide.

Bolted anchor equipped for rappel as of 12/2011, also has an easy walkoff.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 16, 2012

There are now three bolts on this climb. The climb originally had 2 bolts and a piton up higher, but the piton disappeared and was replaced by a bolt. Now it has three bolts. .......