Dry Lake 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Tom Atherton & Todd Gordon, November 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Woody Stark on Apr 9, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Dry Lake". Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Around the corner at the east end of the Feudal Wall and to the right of the Panther crack is a left facing lie-back crack and face. Climb to a bolt about fifteen feet above. The crux is getting by this bolt. They key is the hidden crack well to your right. If you can't reach it, the difficulty goes way up.
Protection 3 bolts, gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap
By Woody Stark Apr 12, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Fine route but tricky. At the crux be sure to reach to your far right across the face and feel for the hidden crack. Without that to pull on, it will be a good deal harder. I think most of the gentle sex will find the move an eleven something or other. I failed many times before I found the key. After I made the move successfully and was reaching for the upper bolt, the damn wind blew me of, and I got to do it again. |
By C Miller Administrator Apr 12, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Despite being a little grainy this is a fun route that's worth doing. The first bolt replaces a fixed pin placed on the FA. One and a half/two stars out of five. |
By Locker From: Westminster, CO Apr 12, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| I have led this route and enjoyed it very much. This past week I seconded Woody on it. It has a really cool move requiring some balancing on somewhat grainy slab at the crux. Beyond that it is pretty straight forward. A few draws, no anchors. Easy walkoff! |
By Justin Slagle From: Palm Desert, CA Feb 7, 2010
| did the climb today, there was three bolts after the crack, the top one looked newer, and i was extremely happy it was there. |
By Richard Shore Dec 25, 2011 rating: 5.10b R
| Only 2 bolts on this rig. Looks like the one that replaced a fixed pin has been chopped and patched. Crux is getting to the "first" bolt, a good distance above your last gear (#1 or 2 tcu). You probably wouldn't deck if you fell, but it'd be one hell of a whip. R rated for sure, just like it is given in the Vogel guide. Bolted anchor equipped for rappel as of 12/2011, also has an easy walkoff. |
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Dec 16, 2012
| There are now three bolts on this climb. The climb originally had 2 bolts and a piton up higher, but the piton disappeared and was replaced by a bolt. Now it has three bolts. ....... |
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