|Loch Vale & uphill
Finally got the time to add some routes to this site. This was a line that Topher, Kevin Cooper, and I tooks turns winging off of in the winter of 2002 (I believe?). After numerous tries, we had fixed protection across the entire traverse allowing Topher to finally get the first ascent. I soon lead the second ascent, but I doubt it's seen another since. It still awaits a lead without preplaced gear. There is a picture of Kevin starting the traverse in Alpinist #5.
The line starts up an ice flow to the right of Deep Freeze. Climb the WI4 flow up a corner until a crack gives pro on the left. Head up this line to the roof and then hang on for a long traversing ride back to the left eventually reaching the ice dagger of Deep Freeze and the finish.
This is a naturally protected mixed line. Standard rock rack. The traverse uses multiple Metolius #00, 0, and 1.
|By j wharton|
Dec 17, 2011
This is a cool route that adds some more climbing in the Deep Freeze Cirque, making it easier to stomach the approach for Deep Freeze's single pitch crux. The roof looks improbable from below but has reasonable feet and gear with one longish pull. I'm guessing this thing was very hard with leashes--nice job, FA team!--but the difficulty is much reduced without them, so don't hesitate to give it a try! Cheers.