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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Dry Heaves 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Robinson, Sandy Stewart, Grant Calder, 1976
Page Views: 1,257
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 21, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to clo...
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Description 

Climb the right-facing corner to the overhang. Undercling right (crux) then up the smaller right-facing corner and face past a small tree. Go left, then up through corners to the large ceiling. Turn this left and belay at the bolts a few feet higher.


Location 

Find V-3, walk to the right end of the ceiling system, and go to the top of a large boulder pile that is right of that point. Dry Heaves starts at the left side of the platform.


Protection 

A blue Camalot is helpful; otherwise standard 'Gunks rack.



Photos of Dry Heaves Slideshow Add Photo
no Dry Heaves on TR
no Dry Heaves on TR
swinging around the roof
swinging around the roof
Comments on Dry Heaves Add Comment
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By vanishing spy
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A #4 or #3 is needed for the undercling if you wish to protect it. A #4 can be placed from a pretty secure spot taking some of the spice out of the move. The roofs are a lot of fun and tricky to see around and find the holds. There is a chain anchor at the top of the first pitch and you can lower off and belay the second from the ground. Double ropes are also recommended, though be careful not to catch a rope behind the flake after the crux.

By Michael G
Sep 28, 2009

A single line is fine. I did it without any serious rope drag. Also, I protected the end of the traverse with a #2, not a 3 or 4. Climbers without doubles or a #4 should not be discouraged from getting on this route.

By Spiro
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Thought this climb was a lot of fun and did require some technique. Single rope will do it just extend your draws. Fun climb.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13

The crux gear is pumpy to place for the grade. IMO, moving off the thin feet and undercling would make this 5.9 anywhere else (and probably IS 5.9-ish). Good climb regardless, and the roof(s) at the top are very fun. Be strong at 5.8 if you want to lead this, and understand the risk of swinging back into the corner if you fall before getting the cam placement.