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Pagoda Rock
Routes Sorted
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Blue Zenith S,TR 
Dry December T,S 
Pillar, The T 
Unsung War, The T 

Dry December 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: F.A Bo Johnston, Anthony Bilotti (1990) F.F.A Chad Suchoski (2006)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,857
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 10, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Bolts and chains at the belay anchor as of 2/16/12

Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts about 40 ft to the left of the Pillar and goes between a break in the canopy of two trees, then up the steep central face of the Pagoda. There are anchors at 100 ft but the route continues to the top and can easily be done in one pitch. Pockets, crimps, mantles and route finding is the name of the game on this one. Going strait up is not always the easiest way to the next bolt. You can easily make this route much harder than the grade. The crux comes just off the belay anchors on the second pitch. A few moves later and you're back in the more moderate range. The first pitch is 5.7 and can be toproped from the anchors with a 60m rope. Though this route has been around for more than 15 years, it was just recently bolted in the summer of 06 and could use a little trafic to clean it up.

Location 

Decend by rappelling the route (huge potential for getting your rope stuck)or make a short rap down the back side on chain anchors.

Protection 

13 Quickdraws


Photos of Dry December Slideshow Add Photo
Roy heading up the 2nd pitch on a misty winters da...
Roy heading up the 2nd pitch on a misty winters da...
Almost to the belay anchors.....
Almost to the belay anchors.....
View from the 1st pitch anchors looking on up the ...
View from the 1st pitch anchors looking on up the ...
Sam about to top out!
Sam about to top out!
See the climber just above the horizontal crack in...
See the climber just above the horizontal crack in...

Comments on Dry December Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 24, 2009

Looked like a good line up the face of The Pagoda, but... The climbing totally sketched me out as I pulled holds off and the sandstone crumbled beneath my feet. Even being careful with loose holds it worried me...

It is a nice line up the face and was fun for my partner on top belay.

Watch out for poison oak at the start!

Don't throw your rope in the poison oak when rapping off the back!
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Apr 12, 2009

Such is the nature of Pine Canyon. You have to familiarize yourself with the nature of the rock before you feel solid on it. It's choss, but great climbing none the less. Not everything out there is that bad. Don't give up just yet, keep climbing out there and you'll get the hang of it soon enough.

Pine Canyon is an place to find adventure, not contrived safety and a day of mindless climbing. It's a great place to become strong in mind, as well as strong in body.

Think of the place as a "great gift" to the bay area.
By Phil McAllister
Jan 25, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The trees have recently been hacked down on the back side of this climb - and having had quite a bit of traffic of late (even since the first time i climbed in a few years back) a lot of the choss has been cleaned up.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 7, 2015

That's unfortunate. The shade from those trees was the only thing keeping the poison oak at bay and keeping your ropes out of it when throwing them down.
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