The southern-most of the 3 crags, there are several nice routes here. The approach is short & easy by Sedona standards, and the climbs are well-equipped. Most climbs are roughly south-facing, and secluded in a small east to west drainage.
From the parking area, cross the road and follow the drainage that heads roughly south from right where the road bends left. Follow this drainage for 10-15 minutes or so until the cliff & spires appear on the left. Hike/scramble/bushwhack up and left to the rock, then contour around the southern face.
Browse More Classics in Dry Creek Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dry Creek Spire:
The Happy Ending 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Black Arrow 5.10 Trad, 4 pitches, 330 feet
Featured Route For Dry Creek Spire
Black Arrow 5.10 AZ : Sedona Area : ... : Dry Creek Spire
P1: (5.9) A short pitch. Climb up and left past a couple bolts to the limestone band. Place a small-ish piece, the up and left to a bolted belay. P2: (5.10) Up and left to a hand crack. Up the crack to a bulge with a finger crack. Climb this (crux) to a nice crack above, then slightly left to a bolted belay.P3: (5.9/5.10) Continue up a nice hand crack to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a bolt, which protects a reachy move (maybe height dependant?) then up & left to a bolted anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ