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Dry and warm in LCC?

Original Post
Matt Selman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 200

Hey Salt Lake folks, has anyone been up Little Cottonwood to rock climb in the last few days? Specifically the Gate and Beckey's wall? Wondering what's dry and what's not. Thanks a bunch!

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

The Gate and Beckeys wall areas are in the cold zone this time of year, and see minimal sun. Both sections of the Gate buttress you describe are icy, and have hanging dangers waiting to launch. As a general rule of thumb during the winter months anywhere from the Dragon Arch to Bong Eater is usually climbable with a few days of sun shine to dry things out. These areas also see abundant sun shine during the day whereas the gate does not.

steven sadler · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 35

I'd have to disagree with Greg on this one. I've climbed the Green A in February 4 or 5 days after a snow storm and it was amazing. That whole area soaks up sun all day. I've also done bushwack crack with snow all around. As long as it's warm and the rock has seen a few days of sun you should be able to climb most routes on gate buttress. beckey's wall however is probably shaded most of the day and the Green A gulley would probably be cold.

Sir Camsalot · · thankgodchickenhead, Ut · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 201

Agree with Steve, I've done Green A in Jan and it was pleasant. Anything south/southwest facing will be great. Coffin, Egg, Bongeater, Kermit's Wad, Bushwhack. We'll be up there tomorrow somewhere searching out the sun and dry rock.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Please report back! Looking forward to your findings.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

I think Greg's post is spot on. As the OP asked what the current state of the climbable rock is.... Not what it was like when you climbed it in Febtober or whenever... Just saying. No disrespect intended but I believe Greg accurately responded to the current situation of rock. That said I'm sure bushwhack is prob climbable as long as its not snowing. Send barefoot in Barbados on gear instead. You won't have to wait in line.

Sir Camsalot · · thankgodchickenhead, Ut · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 201

Great down low in the sun. We climbed a few on Crescent Crack Buttress and it was pleasant in the sun. Drove up to the Gate to scope it out and it doesn't look like those routes have seen any sun for a while, lots of snow and ice. Stay lower in the canyon and you'll be fine.

MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Anyone been to s curves or storm mountain area lately? Looks like some warm weather coming up.

Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Climbed a few routes on the Sail today...kind of a bugger getting up there but it was very nice temperatures in the sun with a forecast for SLC of 30 degrees.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Climbed the Coffin today. Great temps. Bring a jacket for belaying. Perfect while climbing.

Tyler N · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 155

Thinking about going up and checking out All Chalk, anybody been up to the Kermits/Perhaps area?

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

I have not been up there recently, but previous experience would say it's good to go.

MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

We've been at s curves for the past couple days, it's been warm with calm winds. Rock has been awesome, not too cold. Obv not your specific area, or even LCC, but it's somewhat of a parallel. Get out there!

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

All chalk is good, just up there on Sunday, we got on Cranial Prophylactic and Green Adjective.

Tyler N · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 155

Thanks guys!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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