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The Nappy Dugout
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Drunken Monkey 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Frye, 1994
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 9, 2001

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Mark Sellers gettin' drunk on the Monkey.

Description 

Drunken Monkey takes the right-angling crack on the right side of the cave and continues over a small roof/bulge at 40 ft. This route reminds me of the limestone routes in Slovenia where once you get up on your feet the bolt spacing doubles or triples. To get things going, power out the crack for a dozen feet and at the dog-leg jog back left on very sizable jugs. This sector looks like it should be easy, but it is in fact very pumpy, and this is not a friendly Indian Creek crack - it's very sharp. As the route straightens out, you hit the crux roof/bulge with its very bouldery and crimpy crux. I pull this on the right hand, and even so this move felt solid 12c to my puny finger strength and it has always been worth a dog or two. This is very steep with a micro crimp that you will use if you will proceed. Once over the bulge, get established on your feet and shake out the hands. What follows is probably never harder than 5.11 and it is reasonably juggy. However, the pump just mounts because the wall stays gently overhanging right to the anchor. Hang tight. The upper bolts feel a mile apart. If we split stars, I'd go with two and a half here. Good stone, high continuity, and the crux develops early enough that if you slip through a red point is probably in the bag. The big guns may be disappointed by the break in continuity above the bulge. (I knew those California boys were strong)

Protection 

Bring half a dozen draws, a rope, and some gonads.


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Wippin' the monkey!
Wippin' the monkey!

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