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Follow the thin hairline cracks diagonally through the roof placing gear as often as possible(i think this could go clean with a lot of cam hooks and a very experienced second but i tried some knife blades)sling the chicken head at the lip and hook your way up to the shallow cracks. At this point it makes sense to build either a trad anchor (the gear is not very good), or traverse up and left(placing gear and clipping a couple bolts on the way) to where you can hop onto the ground and sling a tree. I thought about drilling an anchor right above the roof (a bolt or two would also be nice to avoid using the sketch gear and the hooks) but i did not want to step on anyone's toes. If an anchor was drilled there would be the option of finishing on the long (hard?) overhanging sport route, or the old rupley route on this side of the cliff making a very fun, be it intense, two pitch climb.
On the far left side of the druid wall, there is a large roof with very thin cracks going through it. If you look at the lip of the roof there is a small slingable chicken head followed by some crimps and shallow cracks...follow the long diagonal line that leads to this chickenhead.
Gear to 2 inches (there is a spot for a number three in the very beginning but its not necessary), Knifeblades, bugaboos, a couple cam hooks and a couple hooks for the crimps that lead to the easy climbing.
From: missoula, mt
Mar 18, 2009
I never successfully finished this route, wind, weather and moving getting in the way. However, aiding through the roof alone was 3 stars in my opinion. The above description is my vision for the finish. A3 may be a bit steep, but there are several weighted only placements. If anyone has a good name, or knows someone that has done this before, post it. Also, if anyone has thoughts on adding an anchor right above the roof, it would be good to hear the community's thoughts