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Drugs and Sex

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Mother Temple S 
Adrenochrome Trundle S 
Cocaine Rodeo S 
Dickin's Cider S 
Face Melter Roof S 
Mater Hater S 
Prison Sex S 
Vitamin I S 
Vitamin K S 

Drugs and Sex Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 5,382
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010
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Me on cocaine rodeo. Photo by Rayna McGinnis.

Description 

In the Valhalla area, and just to the right of the Oblivion routes, is a more newly developed section with some excellent long routes. Those routes on the right tend to be sustained pockets and crimps through a slight overhang on compact rock, while those on the left go through a roof. Several have intermediate anchors, allowing a warmup or an easier route for beginners.

The route order for this section, from left to right, is as follows:
Adrenochrome Trundle 5.12a
Vitamin K 5.12b
Vitamin I 5.11c/d
Acid Mother 5.10a or 5.11c
Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a
Mater Hater 5.12b
Prison Sex 5.12d
Dickins Cider 5.12c

Getting There 

To get to this area, park at the Mondo Beyondo lot, and then take the trail starting at the right end of the pullout. Once at the cliff face, turn right and walk 50 yards.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.8 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Drugs and Sex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Drugs and Sex:
Acid Mother Temple   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
Vitamin I   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Face Melter Roof   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   
Cocaine Rodeo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 105'   
Mater Hater   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Vitamin K   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Dickin's Cider   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Drugs and Sex

Featured Route For Drugs and Sex
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the crux

Mater Hater 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Drugs and Sex
Yet another fun 12 on the Drugs and Sex wall. Just to the right of cocaine, this route is easily distinguished by the left to right slanting ledge. Slap your way up this deceptively hard feature to gain the very fun crux which is followed by perfect two finger pockets on the headwall.One note: I'm 6'2" with a +4 index and I could hardly reach to clip draws to the second and third bolts. Have your tall friend lead this first or, better yet, use a stick clip to pre-hang draws 2 and 3....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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