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 ADVANCED
Drugs and Sex

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Mother Temple S 
Adrenochrome Trundle S 
Cocaine Rodeo S 
Dickin's Cider S 
Face Melter Roof S 
Mater Hater S 
Prison Sex S 
Vitamin I S 
Vitamin K S 

Drugs and Sex  


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Page Views: 4,950
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010
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Description 

In the Valhalla area, and just to the right of the Oblivion routes, is a more newly developed section with some excellent long routes. Those routes on the right tend to be sustained pockets and crimps through a slight overhang on compact rock, while those on the left go through a roof. Several have intermediate anchors, allowing a warmup or an easier route for beginners.

The route order for this section, from left to right, is as follows:
Adrenochrome Trundle 5.12a
Vitamin K 5.12b
Vitamin I 5.11c/d
Acid Mother 5.10a or 5.11c
Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a
Mater Hater 5.12b
Prison Sex 5.12d
Dickins Cider 5.12c

Getting There 

To get to this area, park at the Mondo Beyondo lot, and then take the trail starting at the right end of the pullout. Once at the cliff face, turn right and walk 50 yards.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.4 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Drugs and Sex:
Acid Mother Temple   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
Vitamin I   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Face Melter Roof   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   
Cocaine Rodeo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 105'   
Adrenochrome Trundle   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Vitamin K   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Drugs and Sex

Featured Route For Drugs and Sex
Me on cocaine rodeo.  Photo by Rayna McGinnis.

Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex
This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between. The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore. For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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