In the Valhalla area, and just to the right of the Oblivion routes, is a more newly developed section with some excellent long routes. Those routes on the right tend to be sustained pockets and crimps through a slight overhang on compact rock, while those on the left go through a roof. Several have intermediate anchors, allowing a warmup or an easier route for beginners.
To get to this area, park at the Mondo Beyondo lot, and then take the trail starting at the right end of the pullout. Once at the cliff face, turn right and walk 50 yards.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Drugs and Sex:
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Featured Route For Drugs and Sex
Vitamin K 5.12b WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex
Begins stepping off a sizable boulder right into real climbing on the slabby lower half. The third bolt seems a bit high for safety, so dont blow it before you get it clipped. Cruise up to the roof on easy terrain. The roof section is easy intitially but gets more strenuous and the holds get smaller as you go up. Save some juice for the end, small holds and a difficult sequence guard the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in WY