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 ADVANCED
Addiction
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Beautiful Life S 
Addiction S 
Black Hole S 
Corner Drug S 
DeWalt's Challenge S 
Dogs of War S 
Drug Enemy S 
Gathering, The S 
Go West, Young Man S 
I Want a New Drug S 
Mezmeree (sp?) S 
Pretty Hate Machine S 
Public Enemy S 
Soul Finger S 
Soup Sandwich S 
Surplus Fusion Reaction S 
White Dwarf S 

Drug Enemy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Collins
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 27, 2006

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Description 

This combo line is quite fun. Climb the lower crux of Corner Drug through three bolts. Clip the fourth with a long runner. Shake out. Make the easy but airy hand traverse left into Public Enemy (12b/c). Climb up into the classic moves on the upper cruxes of Public Enemy. You'll make moves off of flakes and pockets. One of the pockets up in there is a good mono - while you are on good feet. I'd peg this around 11d/12a, it could feel either way.


Location 

Obviously located on both Corner Drug (11a), the obvious obtuse dihedral on the right side of addiction wall, and the top of Public Enemy(12b/c) just to the left of Corner Drug.


Protection 

8-9 bolts to anchors. At least one runner, perhaps other long draws. If your runner is long enough, it is possible to clip the bolt after the hand traverse on the left and reach back right and unclip the runner to reduce drag.



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