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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
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Handcracker Direct 
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
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Lightning Bolt Crack 
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Practice Climb 101 
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Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
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Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Drug Abuse 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stuberg, Hague, Harrison, Brooks 1981
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Cisco on Mar 14, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the right side of the Pony Express area....
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is by no means particularly great, but if the crowds in the Pony Express area are to heavy, this one might be an OK filler. The route is one pitch long with a 60 meter rope, but be warned and be careful at the top as it has a TON of loose rock on the belay ledge, and the downclimb to the anchors of Mesca-line will have your balance in practice. Start the route about 30 yards to the right of Mesca-line at a large block and from there go up about 50 feet in dirty, lichenous rock to an obvious undercling. Move left through the underclingand straight up the crack to the belay ledge. There is also another variation that goes up a crack more to the left at I guess 5.8.


Protection 

Standard rack: nuts and cams and a few long slings are helpful.



Photos of Drug Abuse Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa Meir follows on 'Drug Abuse (5.9)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Joseffa Meir follows on 'Drug Abuse (5.9)' on Eldo...
Comments on Drug Abuse Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 15, 2003

I thought this climb was mediocre compared to the adjacent Sister Morphine. The rock is strange and suspect the whole way. The route starts left switches right, then back left. I suspect the FA party intended to follow the direct line up the right hand crack system, but was unable to. The left hand crack system (5.8 variation) makes a lot more sense. After the undercling left at the roof, it's easy to keep traversing left and step down a bit to the Mescaline anchors. The leader can lower from there to the ground with a 60m rope.