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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Dropout Option 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: topher donahue on Jun 25, 2012

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The anchors are directly above, making for an easy...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the Final Exam over the first bulge, then step right to seams leading to the thin line through the roof 6 feet right of the Pass Fail Option.

Protection 

Thin but good pro in the seams, two #00 Metolius TCUs in surprising placements protect the first move out the roof to jugs, then finger-size TCUs protect the crux section. There is a bolt anchor directly over lip.


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By Aaron Ramras
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is a wonderful finish to Final Exam and deserves more attention! The holds are positive and the climbing is bouldery. I found it to be higher quality and only slightly more difficult than its neighbor, the Pass/Fail Option. The difficulty felt similar to me as other hard 11s at Castle Rock, although it may be closer to 12a/b if you are shorter?

The small gear at the start of the roof is bomber; however, it is small. We found that a bomber 0.3 X4 cam fit very well under the small gear to protect the crux. Interestingly, neither the 0.3 C4 or the yellow C3 fit in the placement. With the X4, the route felt very safe, and a ground-up effort would be a fun challenge for a solid climber. If you want to avoid rope drag, build an anchor on the slab above Final Exam and pull your rope through before tackling the roof. Go get on it!