2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Climb the Final Exam over the first bulge, then step right to seams leading to the thin line through the roof 6 feet right of the Pass Fail Option.
Thin but good pro in the seams, two #00 Metolius TCUs in surprising placements protect the first move out the roof to jugs, then finger-size TCUs protect the crux section. There is a bolt anchor directly over lip.
This is a wonderful finish to Final Exam and deserves more attention! The holds are positive, and the climbing is bouldery. I found it to be higher quality and only slightly more difficult than its neighbor, the Pass/Fail Option. The difficulty felt similar to me as other hard 11s at Castle Rock, although it may be closer to 12a/b if you are shorter?
The small gear at the start of the roof is bomber; however, it is small. We found that a bomber 0.3 X4 cam fit very well under the small gear to protect the crux. Interestingly, neither the 0.3 C4 or the yellow C3 fit in the placement. With the X4, the route felt very safe, and an onsight effort would be a fun challenge for a solid climber. If you want to avoid rope drag, build an anchor on the slab above Final Exam and pull your rope through before tackling the roof. Go get on it!