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Lost Angel
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Drop Zone 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Stanley, Stef Streich, 1997
Page Views: 1,909
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Where are those anchors? (They are out of sight be...

Description 

Drop Zone is located on the Wake Up Wall of Lost Angel. The route follows a fun arete on great rock with good pro. Begin about 15 feet to the right of the obvious dihedral of Jungle Blues.

Start with a tricky move on steep rock (crux), this will be safer for tall people who can clip the 1st bolt before commiting to the move. Cruise on up the arete moving to its left side and making some slab moves. Near the end of the route enter a shallow dihedral and make a move up and left to the anchor at 90'.


Protection 

7 draws and something for the 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Drop Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Jason's about to work his feet up the crack on the tricky crux at the 3rd bolt on this 5.10b climb.
Jason's about to work his feet up the crack on the...
Luke at the second bolt on a beautiful October day. Chuck Graves belaying.
Luke at the second bolt on a beautiful October day...
Reaching the good hold on the slab above the initial headwall. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Reaching the good hold on the slab above the initi...
Luke at the first hard moves at the second bolt. This is about 5.9 if you do it right, but there are enough holds to make it easy to do it wrong.
Luke at the first hard moves at the second bolt. T...
The Caterer and Drop Zone. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
BETA PHOTO: The Caterer and Drop Zone.

Photo by Vaino Kodas@S...
The perplexing crux. Looks easy, doesn't it? This didn't work.
The perplexing crux. Looks easy, doesn't it? This ...
The final bulge is pretty contrived--your hand and foot is on the wide crack to the right as you start the sequence, so why not just go up the crack?
The final bulge is pretty contrived--your hand and...
This didn't work either.
This didn't work either.
Moving right on the upper face. I keep angling up and right to good holds on the arete, but it's possible to climb straight up. We are top roping using the anchors on a recent Vaino Kodas route that is just left of Drop Zonee. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Moving right on the upper face. I keep angling up ...
The upper slab is thin and sustained at maybe hard 9? Hard to decide where exactly to climb.
The upper slab is thin and sustained at maybe hard...
Nickie Kelly, concentrating on one of the initial bulges on this 5.10b route.
Nickie Kelly, concentrating on one of the initial ...
Comments on Drop Zone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 20, 2008
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 5, 2002

Thought the crux was a bit higher as you go past the last bulge. There are 2 ways to do it. L - less obvious, but good holds, R - thinner, scumming the corner a bit. I'm 5'10".

By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

Counted 8 bolts on this one, even though the guidebooks say 6. The second roof felt committing, although the next one was trickier. I like this problem, it's very varied.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2002

Really good! I thought the crux was changing midsets from climbing steep sections and slight overhangs to thin slab at the top.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Interesting differences of opinions. Some of the disagreement may be due to how directly the route was climbed. For me the first bolt was trivial, but I stepped left around it. The second bolt was hard, the third bolt was hard, and impossible for my partner who was shorter. We climbed just left of the third bolt. Just right looked reasonable, but wasn't for us. The 5th bolt was easy, but I laybacked off the arete to reach over the top. If you instead reach left for the left edge of the flake, it could be harder. The stand up above the 5th bolt was scary for me. I stepped right into the chimney, clipped the 6th bolt, then went back down and re-climbed that section. The upper face seemed much easier with positive holds.

By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2003

Finished straight up through slab at the top- nothing to hold or step on. Don't know if I should have moved right into the chimmney/dihedral or stay on the slab, but the slab was freakin tough. Barely got through it with no falls. No much experience, but some of the harder 10b moves I've ever done at the top. There are definitely more than 6 bolts (maybe 8 or 10 if I remember right).

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 12, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I don't understand the comments about "arete" and "roofs". There is some steep rock, but only "bulges" at best. And there is no arete, although I did at the third hard section use the right edge of the face with my right hand. (See photos.)

The crux is pulling onto the slab at the third bolt. If you are really tall, this might be easy (I'm 6' 3" and don't qualify). Else the good holds may be sucker holds. I finally figured out a trick move that might be 10b, although I didn't find this easier way until my second time on the climb.

The upper "slab" is steep with many thin edges. Felt pretty hard, but mostly I was unsure of which edges to use. Maybe hard 9?

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Mar 7, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

After doing a bunch of 5.10 piches in Dream and BC, I think this one is in the 10+/11- range for me. Might be the good ol' height factor mentioned earlier. Either way, it is a great climb that shouldn't be missed if you are walking by.

By Brenda Leach
Aug 17, 2005

I found a way to do the crux (pictured in the 3rd and 4th photos) that actually seemed pretty reasonable. As far as I can remember, I put both hands on a decent hold at the top of the bulge. Then, I walked up the crack on the right with BOTH feet. I was told that I was pretty much horizontal at this point. Then, I reached my left hand up to the good horizonal edge above, followed by the right hand (although I ended up crossing my right hand over my left to get that edge). I'm 5'5" and nothing seemed very reachy doing it this way. Try it that way!

By Casey H
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2007

This route was very interesting indeed! I was sketched out by the decking possibilities pulling over each lip on the different steps. The nut on the second bolt was loose when I got there. If any one has some nut glue and is heading that way, it could us a dab! If not, check it as you climb by...

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Apr 20, 2008

One of the best pitches I have done in Boulder Canyon. Pretty similar to 'Bolting for Glory' in difficulty.