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This route is just to the right of Rebel Yell. The crux is half-way up--you diagonal up left over a bulge. The sequence is demanding and tricky but definitely worth the go. I layed back the right edge of the bulge, which allowed me to get my feet up to a ledge and push and grunt my way from there up to a better stance and the higher holds up left. (There looked to be an alternate route on the right up a slab on nasty crimpers.) This one could have been dubbed Rebel Yell as well--that's what I was doing as I forced my way through that section. It felt like one of the harder 11b's I've done....
5 bolts to double anchor.
My first attempt at the crux.
Mike Keegan on "Driving Over Stella".
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 28, 2007
FIRST ASCENT: Ken Trout and Guy Lords, 1990. Tom's right about word-play. After getting some of the bolts in on Interstellar Overdrive, one of the Burkes(maybe?)came up and told us that the corner was a climb that had been led on gear. Oops!
I just added winch hooks to the anchor on Stella. I also moved and replaced the first three bolts and it is better protected now. All the extra holes are from trouble with spinners and a scary hollow zone by number three.
|By Tom Hanson|
Nov 29, 2007
Ken - obviously a word play on Interstellar Overdrive?
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I thought the crux was at the top, right below the anchors. I went just the the right of the anchors which required me to do a very awkward mantle with really high feet to gain a pinch. Maybe you can climb around this on the left? I thought it was a really fun route, plenty of rests, and on interesting if not reasonably solid rock.
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 10, 2013
I first led this route back in the mid-'90s, and a hold broke off before I got to the first bolt---my belayer caught me in his arms the same way you'd catch a maiden jumping out of a castle window. After a few awkward seconds in his arms, I said, "Doug, you can put me down now."
|By Bern C.|
Mar 18, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
I did this climb last weekend. It was fun but may be a bit harder than it used to be. It feels like a hold may have gotten smoothed out or fallen off with all the rain from last fall near the 4th bolt. Great climb with some big moves on a thin face.