Drinking with Gambino 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | UNK |
| Submitted By: | J. Thompson on Mar 12, 2012 |
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The Climber on the left is on "Drinking with Gambi...
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Description This is another very obvious route on the same buttress as Moon River, and Shaking the Goat.
Pitch #1: Climb the varnished thin hands corner. Fairly sustained and very good. Step left at a stance, on a white scoop, and belay at 2 good bolts with rings. 80-85ft, 5.10.
Pitch #2: Continue up the varnished corner. The crack gets a bit wider with more pure hands, before getting wider at the top with a short section of chimney. Belay at a small ledge, with 2 good bolts(chains) out to the right. 95-100ft, 5.10.
The route likely continues to at least the shoulder of the Buttress, possibly the summit.
Location Drinking with Gambino Is located on the Buttress directly above the Mee Canyon Campsite.
Protection 1X Red Alien.
3X #.75-#1 Camalots
2X #2-#4 Camalots
| Comments on Drinking with Gambino |
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 12, 2012
| Ok, I've got some 'splain to do.
The FA's are listed as Unkown. When we climbed the route we thought we were doing an FA. Part way up the first pitch we found a well placed(not stuck) cam with a locked, locking carabiner on it. This appeared to us to be a bail piece. We could not see this piece from below. When the leader got to the obvious belay, he did just that. With no anchors around he put in 2 good bolts and lowered off. Another climber then went up, and led the second pitch. At the top of that pitch an anchor was discovered. This anchor was, also, not visable from below. That anchor consisted of a poor drilled angle and a fixed (and bent really weird) #10 Hex. This anchor was partially removed(the hex and slings)and replaced by 2 good bolts and chains.
So! If anyone has info about this route, please let me know! I'd love to hear more about it and give credit where its due. Obviously the route name will be changed once we know what the FA's called it. The part of this route we climbed was outstanding, and I assume there is more to it....
Cheers!
josh |
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