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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: webster/dunn
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: dresden is the craft to the left, nutcracker is on...


A tough little number. Start up Nutcracker then move left to a thin finger/layback crack. James followed barefoot ALA Dresden.


Thin gear-tree belay or better from gear

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By cms829
From: NJ
Mar 7, 2012

My first trad fall. Broke my ankle on this guy! Watch your toes!
By burlap submariner
Jun 1, 2012

Wow did you hit the little rest ledge at the lip of the roof? I have always come in from the left and placed large pieces just under the roof with a long sling on it then move over the roof and protect, this is a great and safe way to go, you also can tr the bottom direct start (10b x, rock over/mantle).
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 1, 2012

the direct start is a true X.. you might die. BAD gear, great climbing
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Yeah if you fell on the direct start, you'd likely be toast. Better to traverse in per above.

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