Awesome route. Protects pretty well with small TCU's and nuts all the way to the bolt. At the bolt there are some decent horizontal holds where it's possible to rest and it is also the last place to retreat without taking a whip. From here take a deep breath, go up and commit to the crux. Unless you can stop in the middle of a 5.11+ lieback, placing gear is possible only after the crux. Some 5.9 moves through or around the small roof finish the route.
The route follows a shallow dihedral just left of Marionette (but before the large alcove with Chockstone).
This is one of my favorite routes at the New after climbing at here for 6 years. Just the right combo of overhang and perfectly spaced holds. Though the moves are amazing, the gear placements ARE intimidating.
protects well to the bolt is a streeetch and I've led this route a number of times. If you are climbing routes like this I think it is healthy to be realistic about the gear.
By Shawn Heath Administrator From: Forchheim, Germany Jul 7, 2010
I think if you learn the sequence, this route is surprisingly positive and stable. However, if you lead it and fall before the pin, you will almost certainly hit the ground from a 30 ft. fall. This is definitely deserving of its R rating, so make sure you're comfortable on 11s before attempting an onsight.
By camhead From: Vandalia, Appalachia Oct 11, 2012
yeah, I'm not sure what the route description means by "protects well to the bolt." There is a cluster of bomber gear once you get to the stance just above the roof, about 15 feet off the ground, but that seemed to be about it as far as gear goes. Other than the unprotected start, I think that a REALLY competent belayer maybe could keep you off the ground at most points on this route, but it is very much an "R."
By Chris Whisenhunt Administrator From: Fayetteville, WV Sep 18, 2013 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c R
I didn't do a drop of 11+ lie backing. This thing felt 11b to me however for someone with less than a 6 foot ape this may be a lot harder! Great route.