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Dreamspeaker Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Sep 16, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Dreamspeaker is an impressive skinny tower in Texas Canyon, with one of the finest summits in the desert. The rock quality is mostly good, though the first 40 feet or so is sandy and occasionally loose. The route climbs the south face, and is shady in the morning. The tower is just under 200' high from the pedestal is sits on, but it feels bigger since the pedestal the route starts from is already a few hundred feet up.

The approach is complicated - plan on a full day to do the climb, and it isn't a bad idea to locate your rappel point and familiarize yourself with the canyon the day before.

Getting There 

There are two alternatives to get to the base of this tower. One can drive the very rough four wheel track up Arch Canyon for about 5 miles, or drive in 3.1 miles on the well mantained rim road and descend from there. Here are both approches:

1. Arch Canyon Approach. From Blanding, go south for 2 miles and turn right onto Rt 95. Drive 14.2 miles to a right turn up an open valley. Go 2.5 miles on a good dirt road to where Arch Canyon and the four wheel high clearance starts(ATV recommended). Drive about 5 miles until below and midway between both Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. It takes about 30 mins steep hike/scramble to reach the base of the towers.

2. Rim Approach. This was used on the first ascent of Dreamcatcher. From the turn off south of Blanding onto route 95, drive 19.4 miles (5.2 miles past the valley turn off that leads to the mouth of Arch Canyon) to a road on the right with a large map board and self fee station. Drive 3.1 miles on a car friendly dirt road to good camping area just before where the road has a steep rocky section. From here, walk a short distance northeast to the rim of Arch Canyon and great views of both towers. Follow the rim west for about 20 minutes to where the mesa juts out towards the towers. Not far from the end on the north side, use a fixed 60m rope on a good tree above a wide crack and slab. Rap its length to ledges, and walk down to the right for about a couple of hundred yards and use another fixed line for 100'. Then across to the foot of the towers.

Climbing Season

For the Moab Area area.

Weather station 12.7 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Dreamspeaker
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross on Pitch 2. First Ascent North Face of Drea...

North Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2  UT : Moab Area : ... : Dreamspeaker
A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1) The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay. P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free) P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free) Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'. This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Dreamspeaker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa on one of the best summits around.
Melissa on one of the best summits around.
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: We fixed a single 70 and rapped off of the North s...
We fixed a single 70 and rapped off of the North s...
Rock Climbing Photo: After rapping down the south face from the saddle,...
After rapping down the south face from the saddle,...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the base of the tower at the saddle, it is po...
From the base of the tower at the saddle, it is po...
Rock Climbing Photo: Three separate tiers of ruins are visible from the...
Three separate tiers of ruins are visible from the...

Comments on Dreamspeaker Add Comment
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By A. Frost
Jun 24, 2009
South Face route is one of the most psychologically accessible climbs in this canyon.

That being said, first ascentionists Toula and Baxter are known for their historical prowess.

A marvelous line to a stunning summit on (mostly) good rock.
By michael ferraro
Sep 29, 2009
I freed the north side second and third pitches on 11-15-08. I think the second goes at 5.11b and the third is 5.10d. It is a great route with exelent exposure. Bring a bolt kit to replace super sketch bolt in loose block, on the second rap station.

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