Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Cliffband
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Rain 
Another Lichen Nightmare 
Crackerjack 
Crystal Suppository 
Dreamscape 
Dynabolic 
Finger in the Socket 
Illusion Dissolution 
Just Say No to Crack 
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) 
Prow, The 
Rocket in My Pocket 
Sanadine Dream 
Shadowdancer 
Unnamed 

Dreamscape 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jean DeLataillade, Doug Pandorf
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 8, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up at the dreamscape.

Description 

Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish.

Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for conquering your dreamscape.


Location 

Between Shadowdancer and Another Lichen Nightmare on the north-facing face right of the obvious (and classic) Prow (5.11).


Protection 

Single cams to 3" and plenty of nuts should suffice for leading. Top anchor options include Another Lichen Nightmare's bolted anchor about 15' to the left, Shadowdancer's bolted anchor 15' to the right, or big trees about 30' back from the cliff's edge (and a bunch of cacti for your rope to get into between the trees and the cliff).



Photos of Dreamscape Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Whitbeck leading Dreamscape
Eric Whitbeck leading Dreamscape
Comments on Dreamscape Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -