Dreamscape 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Description This is the furthest left route on Dream Dome. Access by rappelling down from a tree at the top of Dream Dome, or by climbing up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time. Climb slabs and friction up an obtuse corner to a tree at the top. This has great quality rock, but it is an inconsistent and unexciting line.
Protection 6 bolts. If you belay in the gully, bring gear (.5" to 1" cams) for an anchor. Belay from a tree at the top. Rap back down or walk off.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Apr 16, 2006
| This route is pretty low angle but slab-like, despite going up a dihedral. I counted 4 bolts, and then you're on your own. I'd recommend a small rack or you could take a big fall before getting to a tree, where it is loose and sandy. We rapped back down from a tree. |
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Jun 4, 2006 rating: 5.8
| With a 70m rope, you can start at the bottom of the gully (next to Wrinkles in Time) and climb this pitch all the way to the top. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the move up the gully, and a yellow Alien to protect the move to the first bolt. After the first four bolts, break right and clip two bolts that are shared with Sea of Dreams. A final move onto a mossy, lichen-covered slab can be protected with a large nut or red tricam. Belay from a large tree at the top that's directly above Sea of Dreams. Note: a 70m rope is not long enough to rap straight down to the gully from this belay tree. It may be possible to rap to the gully if you angle the rappel way uphill. If you want to top-rope Sea of Dreams or Flying Vee after leading Dreamscape, lower or rap down to the gully on a single strand, and belay from the tree at the top. |
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