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Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
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Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 

Dreamscape 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stuart, Judy, and Bret Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 2,636
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Melissa, alongside Tony, climbing her hardest rout...

Description 

This climbs the left bolt line on the East face just right of the big chimney system. The 1st bolt is rather high, but the climb protects well after that. This is an edging climb that is very fun. The angle is relaxed enough you almost don't need your hands. Almost.


Protection 

2 bolts atop for the anchor. They are actually on the wall now as opposed to over the top. 3 draws for the climb.



Photos of Dreamscape Slideshow Add Photo
Dreamscape is approximately where the rope lies
BETA PHOTO: Dreamscape is approximately where the rope lies
Starting off
Starting off
Enjoying the thin edges of Dreamscape.
Enjoying the thin edges of Dreamscape.
When in doubt, run it out!
When in doubt, run it out!
Comments on Dreamscape Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 7, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 14, 2004

Gear Alert

Bolt 2 is a spinner

By Lee Gitlin
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The rock on this wall is very nice -- kind of like the Slips, but on steroids. A little steeper, a bit more crimpy, requiring cranking. My serious concern is the protection, or lack thereof. Whoever set this route obviously had little concern for those that would subsequently lead it. 3 bolts over 60 feet -- are you kidding?

By Leroy Fielding
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb! I think the crux is very well protected (just past the third/last bolt). The start is somewhat runout, but only about 5.7 in difficulty. Excellent!

By Leroy Fielding
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Crux is after second bolt, not third as indicated in my previous post. Realized that this morning after climbing it again.

By vincent pierce
Jun 15, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

2nd bolt has been replaced. In my eyes this is a well protected climb. The 15-20ft to the first bolt are quite easy and it stays safe (but a little runout) after that. Footwork is key!

By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jul 10, 2007

Bolt position seemed fine to me. Great climb to practice footwork, I only had to pull once the entire climb.

By Rachelle J. Ross
Jul 13, 2009

Great climb and excellent footwork exercise (got a friend who gets by on brute force? Bring him here and have some laughs). I agree with Lee that the bolting was irresponsible here. You can easily set up a top-rope by walking around the left. That first bolt is so high that you'd deck pretty hard if you missed the clip (not worth the risk in my opinion. A great little climb though and worth the sketchy approach.

By Brian in SLC
Jul 13, 2009

The bolting is "irresponsible"? No, climbers expecting every route in the canyon to be bolted safely, in accordance with their tastes, is irresponsible.

Look at the date of the FA. No power drills back then.

You'll remember a lead of this route long after the memory of just about any "sport" climb.

Celibrate diversity! If you're not up for it, then, TR it. Leading this route if you're not solid at the grade would be irresponsible...

By Ben Folsom
Jul 13, 2009

The bolt placements are excellent and the route is perfectly protected.
Take Brian's comment and learn from it, because it is very well put!

By zoso
Jul 16, 2009

AMEN to Ben and Brian's comments.

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 31, 2009

AMEN to Zoso's comment!

By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 28, 2010

For near-vertical slab, this is a perfect route, really.

By Courtney Pace
Jun 25, 2012

Don't be deterred by the scant protection. The climbing felt pretty mellow and way easier than dream slate and quite low angle. That being said, a 5.9 climber should approach it with respect.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I love this area. Wall is absolutely perfect. No crowds, nice and cool. First bolt is high but climbing is mellow, keep your head and you'll do fine. Similar to The Slips. Small hands and feet make for a really fun route.

By verticalworldtraveler
From: Midvale, UT
Mar 7, 2014

One of the best at this crag! After climbing Narcolepsy this seemed mellow. Don't bother bringing extra gear, there isn't any, just bullet rock and fun climbing between the 3 bolts.