Melissa, alongside Tony, climbing her hardest rout...
This climbs the left bolt line on the East face just right of the big chimney system. The 1st bolt is rather high, but the climb protects well after that. This is an edging climb that is very fun. The angle is relaxed enough you almost don't need your hands. Almost.
2 bolts atop for the anchor. They are actually on the wall now as opposed to over the top. 3 draws for the climb.
By Lee Gitlin Jun 17, 2004 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
The rock on this wall is very nice -- kind of like the Slips, but on steroids. A little steeper, a bit more crimpy, requiring cranking. My serious concern is the protection, or lack thereof. Whoever set this route obviously had little concern for those that would subsequently lead it. 3 bolts over 60 feet -- are you kidding?
Great climb and excellent footwork exercise (got a friend who gets by on brute force? Bring him here and have some laughs). I agree with Lee that the bolting was irresponsible here. You can easily set up a top-rope by walking around the left. That first bolt is so high that you'd deck pretty hard if you missed the clip (not worth the risk in my opinion. A great little climb though and worth the sketchy approach.
Don't be deterred by the scant protection. The climbing felt pretty mellow and way easier than dream slate and quite low angle. That being said, a 5.9 climber should approach it with respect.
By Garrett C From: SL,UT Sep 22, 2013 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
I love this area. Wall is absolutely perfect. No crowds, nice and cool. First bolt is high but climbing is mellow, keep your head and you'll do fine. Similar to The Slips. Small hands and feet make for a really fun route.