Dreams Of Darkness
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Peter Spindloe, 5/25/02|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces South, but can be cold in the crack|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on May 25, 2002|
BETA PHOTO: Dreams Of Light ascends the offest offwidth to the...
This route is another new route at Sobo. Approach as for Dreams Of Light, which it to say, head to the left-hand side (west) of the S/SW prow of the rock. Look up at a gaping off-width, that runs for 80' before hitting a broken band and going through a really cool roof on a hand to fist crack. This is the obvious wide system in the attached photograph.
Yes, a few easy moves are done, then an 80' 5.9+ OW to a 4' roof. You will likely get horizontal on it. The roof is not the crux, as the jams are good and the holds are pretty big. It can protect on any cam from 2" -4".
I gave this route 3*'s. I am certain that some other people would not. If you like OW, this is one of the most sustained and long OW's in the canyon. If you don't like OW, you'd call it 80' of hell with a great roof above it.
The route was cleaned by the FA party, but a few of the chockstones left behind might be freed with effort. We jumped on them to check them. In the end, we felt that they would hold if people climbed wisely. Tie them off for pro at your own risk, however.
Pro depends upon how many wide pieces you own. There are a few 'iffy' chocks to sling, and you can place a few #5 Camalots or Big Bros.
The largest piece I took was a #4.5 Camalot, and where I wanted pro, it was 1/2" shy of being big enough. I recommend taking at LEAST a #5 Camalot if you are not comfortable running out 80' of OW with only occasional pro.
That's not 5.9+ "and offwidth", the OW part is already taken into the grade. If you can't climb OW, you're going to call this 5.10. Think Grande Giraffe, but not slick and lots longer that the OW section of GG.
Tony Bubb emerges from his 'Dreams Of Darkness' on...
Peter Spindloe joins in the waking world by pullin...
This is the point where Dreams of Darkness leaves ...
|Comments on Dreams Of Darkness
|By Paul S|
From: Fruita, CO
Sep 23, 2006
I thought this route was pretty unique and fun. A #5 Camalot just barely fits at the crux, but it's pretty tipped out, so it's not too inspiring! Also, I had a fairly large block rip out on the roof, so be careful of loose rock!